In the kitchens of Cigalon, Robin Bessire is like a fish to water. Six months ago, the 24-year-old joined the restaurant specializing in fish, crowned with a Michelin star. The Thônex establishment has been run for almost thirty years by his parents. “For the moment, he mainly takes care of starters,” explains chef Jean-Marc Bessire. I continue to manage the dishes, the classics.” At 11 a.m., on this Thursday, October 10, while her father chats with the journalist, Robin is busy. In his already expert hands, the candied beetroot mille-feuilles transform into larger-than-life roses. Freshly arrived from Brittany, sar will also be cooked as a starter.
Since the arrival of his son, Jean-Marc Bessire has been swimming in happiness. “I am proud and happy. It gives me a boost of energy. Customers feel this renewal.” Robin’s talent (who has worked notably at the Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville, in Crissier, at Maison Wenger, in Jura, and recently at La Micheline, in Eaux-Vives) does not go unnoticed. During the four-handed meal concocted by chefs Bessire and Francesca Fucci at Fiskebar at the end of September, his fillet of arctic char accompanied by squash, notably butternut balls, won over the guests.
Is there a dish he is particularly proud of? “Mackerel flamed with a yoghurt and mint sauce,” replies the young cook. “I like to choose a product and work around it,” he continues. “I give him carte blanche, provided he works with local and seasonal products,” confirms Jean-Marc Bessire. It is with this in mind that the duo went on a short trip to Brittany to meet the fishermen and fish merchants who supply Le Cigalon. “It’s important to see the industry from A to Z,” comments the young chef. When we receive a sea bream from the Mediterranean and we know that it is rare and that someone got up early to go fishing for it, we work with it with even more respect.”
Delighted to learn the tricks of the trade alongside an enthusiast, the son also wants to “bring a touch of modernity”. He specifies: “Cuisine has evolved since my father’s generation. New techniques, new cooking utensils have appeared.” If tradition could thus give way to innovation, passion will always remain, as a common thread. “The goal is to have fun and make sure customers are happy,” says Robin Bessire.
On September 30, Gault&Millau released its Swiss 2025 edition. Results: 43 new French-speaking restaurants, including eleven in Geneva, are listed. They join the circle of excellent local addresses, some of which are also praised by the Michelin, like Cigalon. A generation of young cooks is generating enthusiasm. Head of Bayview (one star), Danny Khezzar, 28, has established himself as their leader in the canton.
Another objective: to preserve the star that has made Le Cigalon shine since December 5, 1996! “That’s not what matters. If she’s there, it’s definitely a plus. It’s rewarding.” Enough to put a heavy weight on the young man’s shoulders. “Not that much,” he assures us. I feel supported and also pushed to develop my creativity. It’s good pressure!”
Revealing a photo of Robin at 6 years old, in a chef’s jacket and apron, his mother, Corinne, insists that the decision to take over the establishment is hers. “It will happen over the months. He needs to be aware of what that represents. Nothing will be imposed on him. It’s his choice!” Jean-Marc Bessire agrees and adds: “What is important is that there is a story.” That of Cigalon begins a new chapter, signed “Father and fish”, according to the formula used by the chef to dedicate his book.
