What hides in the shadow of Mont Sainte-Anne

On this last Saturday in May, the colors of the countryside are almost blinding. It’s not us who are going to complain, as the landscape is adorned with a soft green against a completely blue sky.

We leave our base camp, the Cheval & Campagne chalet in Saint-Ferréol-les-Neiges, and head down Avenue Royale, towards Les Canardises, a duck production farm.

The Cheval & Campagne chalet, very close to the horse enclosure. (Isabelle Pion/La Tribune)

Several addresses on the brand new Côte-de-Beaupré gourmet circuit can be discovered by bike, and this is the method we choose for this portion of the circuit; the two addresses are only about ten minutes away.

After chatting with the co-owner of Canardises Pascal Klein and admiring the view that visitors have, we hit the road again… with our bag full of products. The brand is a Terego member and has some spaces for vans; we pass campers who are heading back on the road.

We opt for the climbs and descents of Rang Saint-Antoine, an asphalt section. There, a river stretches before us; again, these are the mountains in the distance. We are also looking towards Saint-Nicolas, in the hinterland, where certain rural roads are still not paved.

The “Le cowboy” hamburger at Schack à patates, in Saint-Ferréol-les-Neiges. The menu also offers some healthy choices alongside the great classics like hamburgers and poutine. (Isabelle Pion/La Tribune)

A route just long enough to take us to dinner… and to the Potato Shack, a small canteen in the heart of Saint-Ferréol-les-Neiges offering good burgers. The terrace allows us to enjoy the decor.

In the afternoon, head towards Mont-Sainte-Anne, where we embark on the Jean-Larose circuit, the equivalent of an easy mountain bike trail (around 6 km one way) and which offers a beautiful panorama of the river. It is mainly these enthusiasts that we come across on our way. Please note that you must pay for your ticket in order to have access to the MSA trails.

One of the puppies of the dog Zappa, at Cheval & Campagne. How not to break down?

One of the puppies of the dog Zappa, at Cheval & Campagne. How not to break down? (Isabelle Pion/La Tribune)

We return at the end of the afternoon to Cheval & Campagne, which has a few horses and where I find Zappa, this mitten-stealing dog with whom I had become infatuated two years previously. Since then, she has become a mother; this time, I also fall for his two little ones. The address has the backdrop of Monts Sainte-Anne and Ferréol. It is in this setting that I will try to observe the Northern Lights… but that will be for another time.

The Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré basilica is located on the Marie-Hélène Prémont cycle route. Across the street, cyclists can stop at the Apollo café, which is also on the cycle route.

The Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré basilica is located on the Marie-Hélène Prémont cycle route. Across the street, cyclists can stop at the Apollo café, which is also on the cycle route.

The day before, I had also redone a portion of Avenue Royale towards Ange-Gardien, starting from the Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré basilica. I had already ridden on this portion of the Marie-Hélène Prémont cycle route, and I returned there for the pleasure of seeing the cellars, the bread ovens pass by – like at the Chez Marie bakery – and the ancestral buildings like the Baker Inn.

The terrace of Auberge & Campagne in Saint-Ferréol-les-Neiges.

The terrace of Auberge & Campagne in Saint-Ferréol-les-Neiges. (Yan Doublet/Archives Le Soleil)

And for the foodies

This is my second visit to Auberge & Campagne, located a stone’s throw from Cheval & Campagne, where there is a chalet and a large room for private events.

After discovering the gargantuan lunches of co-owner Lisa Linton at the inn two years ago, this time I discovered the menu of the bar Chez Pat, located inside the establishment located in the heart of Saint- Ferréol-les-Neiges.

If the brand is not officially included in the Côte-de-Beaupré gourmet circuit, I will long remember this menu concocted by chef Alexanne Grenier. After enjoying the last rays of the sun on the new terrace, we opt for raw and grilled oysters, a halibut crudo, salmon gravlax, as well as a foie gras and proscuitto mousse, in a set menu. share.

Obviously, the brand is intended to be a meeting place for local people. Notice to foodies from there or elsewhere, it would be a shame to miss it.

WHAT TO DO ALSO?

River shuttle

There is no shortage of ideas in the area, with the offering of hiking and mountain biking, among others. Développement Côte-de-Beaupré recently announced a reduction in the prices of its river shuttle between Quebec and Côte-de-Beaupré: the round trip now costs $10. Cyclists are welcome, at no extra charge.

Introduction to canyoning

If you like thrills, it is possible to discover the Sainte-Anne canyon by canyoning: we offer you to descend two walls of 12 and 19 meters under the supervision of professional guides. The activity is beginner to intermediate level.

The columnist was the guest of Développement Côte-de-Beaupré.

Suggestions, questions, comments: write to me at [email protected]

Follow me on Instagram: @isabelle.pion

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