After 42 years at Smac in La Rochelle – a company specializing in waterproofing and cladding – Christophe will retire at the end of the year. “Now I’m looking forward to it.” To enjoy my garden, my camper van…” says the man who started as a handler in the company just after school. For the occasion, Sébastien Walletier, his boss, concocted a very special treat for him this Friday, October 18: a “bitumen lamb”. A traditional meal, normally reserved for the end of structural work on construction sites, that Christophe has always known.
Christophe (right) is supposed to cut the leg of lamb.
XAVIER LEOTY
Tradition
It’s difficult to know when the invention of this preparation really dates back, certainly “more than a hundred years ago”, assures Sébastien. “One day, a group of workers did not have enough to eat on a construction site, so they decided to cook their meat directly in the heat of the asphalt, by stewing,” says the boss. . From there would be born this very special recipe, which intrigues as much as it can put off.
“Have you thought about bringing the fire extinguishers back nearby?” »
The specificity of the dish begins as soon as it is prepared, generally the day before, as is the case here for Christophe’s retirement. Several colleagues meet to season and package the legs of lamb. “Everyone has their own secret recipe,” Sébastien says with mystery. The legs are then wrapped with aluminum foil, Scotch tape and kraft paper – two or even three layers – to avoid any leaks… This is preferable.
Xavier Léoty
The day before, it takes no less than two hours to prepare the dozen legs.
The next morning, the bitumen tank of around twenty liters is heated until the black matter liquefies. You have to make sure to light the tank early enough, otherwise the legs are put into it a little late, like this Friday for Christophe’s departure. “No problem, we’ll have two aperitifs!” », replies a colleague. “Have you thought about bringing the fire extinguishers back nearby?” » worries another.
One hour of cooking
Once the dozen legs have been packaged and the bitumen has liquefied, the pieces of meat are placed in a metal basket and immersed entirely in the tank for more than an hour; “the cooking time obviously depends on the size of the leg of lamb,” explains Christophe, a connoisseur. The smell of asphalt – somewhat nauseating – permeates the entire company courtyard.
Xavier Léoty
The basket of legs is dripping with asphalt when it comes out.
A little after noon, the legs are taken out of the tank and the basket quickly: everything must not solidify together. The packages are then unwrapped “layer by layer, to prevent the bitumen from settling on the lamb,” explains Sébastien. “The Cherry [surnom donné à un ancien de l’entreprise, parti à la retraite il y a deux ans, mais revenu pour l’occasion]don’t forget to leave the last layer to maintain the heat until serving! » asserts the boss.
More than a leg of lamb
This Friday, more than fifty colleagues, customers, partners of Christophe and Smac came to enjoy these legs with an apparently “unique” taste. Everyone knows this tradition, only a few new recruits discover it even though they have heard about it since they started in the company. “It’s the first thing they taught me when I arrived here,” laughs the boss. At first, I almost thought it was hazing! »
“My children still have to taste this one day!” »
Xavier Léoty
Sébastien (left) and Christophe (right) serve the leg of lamb together.
Patrice, a former employee of Smac, is one of those who returned this Friday, even if he now works “for the competition”. He even bought a leg of lamb to cook especially for his family: “My children still have to taste that one day!” »
More than just a meal, bitumen leg of lamb has become a moment of sharing “where there is no more hierarchy”, assures the chef, and sometimes even a sales argument: “When customers ask for a discount on the quote , instead, I suggest they make a bitumen leg at the end of the structural work, and they happily accept! »
Xavier Léoty
A large makeshift table was set up in the Smac warehouse for the occasion.
This Friday, there is no question of making turnover, quite the contrary. Forty employees were requisitioned to celebrate Christophe’s departure, “that was the minimum.” “Christophe represents what is increasingly rare today: a man who will have spent his entire career in the same company, who will have worked tirelessly, even at night, and who took care of the company as if it was his. » In this largely masculine environment, there is not a little tear in the eye or a tremor in the voice, everything is said with the bitumen leg of lamb.
