Paris – Still shaken up by the transfer window for artistic directors, Fashion Week returns to Paris on Tuesday, notably with the highly anticipated return of Jacquemus and the first steps of Peter Copping at Lanvin.
After Florence and Milan, men's fashion is setting up shop in Paris from January 21 to 26 with a slightly less dense program than last year (37 fashion shows and 30 fall-winter 2025-2026 collection presentations).
“It's a season that promises to be a little different from usual”, due to the waltz of artistic directors in recent months, explains to AFP Adrien Communier, fashion section manager at GQ France. Givenchy is notably missing, with new artistic director Sarah Burton, appointed in September, reserving her first collection for Women's Fashion Week in March.
After a first show in September, Valentino's new artistic director, Alessandro Michele, will be back for haute couture week, which follows in the footsteps of men's. Another notable absence is that of Loewe, whose artistic director Jonathan Anderson is reportedly leaving, according to several specialized press outlets.
“Even if there are a few defections, Paris remains by far the busiest and most creative Fashion Week,” underlines Alice Feillard, men’s purchasing director at Galeries Lafayette.
Louis Vuitton will open the ball of this event as fashionable as it is celebrity Tuesday evening, with the presentation of Pharrell Williams' fourth collection. Other major luxury houses like Dior Homme and Hermès will also be there, like the Japanese houses Kenzo, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Mihara Yasuhiro.
The return of Jacquemus
One of the most scrutinized shows will undoubtedly be that of Jacquemus, who is returning to the official calendar after five years of absence. In recent years, the Provençal has had the habit of parading whenever and wherever he wants, whether in a lavender field in the south of France or in the park of the Palace of Versailles.
-Lanvin will also be back after two years of absence with the first collection of Peter Copping, appointed artistic director of the oldest French fashion house in June. Willy Chavarria is also eagerly awaited. The Californian designer at the head of his own house – in addition to his position as vice-president of design at Calvin Klein – is showing for the first time in the French capital. Frenchman Emeric Tchatchoua, founder of streetwear label 3.Paradis, is also on the official calendar for the first time.
As in recent seasons, Saint Laurent is not there but the brand led by Anthony Vaccarello should show in Paris in the wake of this men's fashion week.
Comfort and elegance
And in terms of silhouettes, what should we expect? After the end of the hegemony of streetwear, the trend is towards more “casual” “tailoring” (this style based on suits).
Trench coat, “Barbour” style jacket, duffle coat, nice jeans, a leather jacket, slippers… “There is this kind of very classic silhouette, a little dandy but chic, elegant and a little casual which is in the process of settling in”, comments Alice Feillard. “There is this need for comfort and elegance,” adds Adrien Communier. A big trend in the spring-summer 2025 collections, “workwear”, modeled on overalls, could also be found on the catwalks, specialists predict.
The outdoor style, inspired by ultra-technical trekking clothing, is also expected in the different collections. In terms of material, experts still expect a lot of leather “a little lacquered, a little shiny too, almost a little vinyl”, explains Ms. Feillard. Regarding colors, “for two seasons, we have seen brown everywhere, it would not surprise me if it was still present this season,” adds Mr. Communier.
