Regenerative medicine is increasingly inspiring cosmetics. Some good news for… right away.
Without collagen, we would be marshmallows. And our skin a cloth, because it ensures skin firmness, density and elasticity. In 2025, new treatments help us more than ever to manufacture, preserve and manage this key protein.
The expertise of international minds
Fifty years of studies, 600 researchers, more than 100 publications, around twenty patents, a board leading international scientist (including the CNRS and CiRA, Center for iPS Cell Research and Application, in Kyoto)… Dior research has been exploring biological markers of aging for a long time. And she identified twelve, just for the skin.
Each advance in science fuels its flagship Dior Capture treatment. It’s also on the Stanford campus, with a range of researchers high-levelincluding Professor Laurent Lantieri, maestro of facial transplants, who unveiled his new technology, OX-C (Oxygeno-Collagen) Treatment. There was a lot of talk about cellular respiration, essential for skin regeneration.
Focus on cellular respiration
“Oxygen is essential to skin metabolism,” recalls Bruno Bavouzet, head of LVMH research. It plays a major role in the production of ATP (adenosine triphosphate), the energy used by cells to regenerate and synthesize proteins, including collagen, the main component of skin tissue. It takes more than 12,600 ATP molecules to produce a single collagen fiber. Our recent work shows that cellular respiration decreases from the age of 20, in the epidermis as in the dermis. However, less ATP in fibroblasts means 68% less collagen between the ages of 25 and 80.” The lack of oxygen also promotes the accumulation of senescent cells, the famous “zombie” cells which create a mess around them.
-Controlling oxygen and its transport is a real challenge. Won with the new generation of Dior Capture serum and cream. Inside, three patented complexes (too complex to detail here) increase cellular respiration and dermal and epidermal regeneration. For impatient people who want an immediate rebound effect, shaping polymers do the job, while waiting for this youthful cocktail to act in depth. All in a 92% natural haute couture formula. At Lancaster, we have also long been interested in oxygen and the best way to transport it to the right place so that the skin self-regenerates. We find it in his new Princely Line, the ultimate in his research.
Help from peptides and plants
The problem with collagen is that the molecule is too large to penetrate the skin barrier, so you have to find other smaller active ingredients, like peptides, to boost it in a different way. In addition, there is not one collagen, but sixteen! “They work together to create your own collagen matrix,” says dermatologist Dr. Mamina Turegano. The brands are applied to re-inflate our skin mattress and push back wrinkles from the inside.