Tallinn: the emergence of a destination under the snow

Two rooms, two atmospheres. In the historic center of Tallinn, an illuminated fir tree stands. Around him, chalets have been broadcasting syrupy songs since Friday November 22, the evening of the opening of the Christmas market in the capital of Estonia. The next morning, we find ourselves in Kopli, a district in the north of the city, in an old rubber boot factory where hip-hop plays.

Since the beginning of 2020, the industrial wasteland has been home to Karjase sai, a trendy bakery which, in the middle of the afternoon, changes its name to become the Barbarea restaurant. This is where Kenneth Karjane, a 31-year-old baker and cook, welcomes us while his employees prepare pastries, bake bread and serve breakfast to early risers. “This morning, we started making raisin rolls which people love at this time of year. They are simple and delicious,” says the boss.

In Estonia, bread is a religion. Restaurants and bakeries offer different kinds, white or black, and especially filled brioches, savory or sweet. “Here, we only use organic flour,” emphasizes Kenneth Karjane. It is partly imported from Italy and mixed with local production. In Estonia, it is not warm enough to produce enough organic durum wheat. In my restaurant, I try as much as possible to use local organic products. It’s a challenge because the country’s supply depends on imports.”

Tallinn and Helsinki, capital of Finland, are close geographically — two hours by ferry — and culturally. Moreover, by a twist of fate, the Estonian chef was born in Finland. “In Helsinki, the culinary scene is booming. And it’s really cool. In Tallinn, several cutting-edge establishments have opened recently. This is very exciting given the tense economic situation. Restaurateurs therefore do not do crazy things, relying on safety. But the revolution is underway. I am sure there will be even more new restaurants and the standard will increase over the next four years.”

Kenneth Karjane’s restaurant fuses inspirations from around the world, but revolves around Estonian products. “The cuisine of our country has Nordic, Slavic and even a little French influences. Christmas is marked by culinary traditions. We eat roast pork, black pudding served with cranberry jam, sauerkraut, vegetables. These dishes are not served in restaurants. We eat them as a family, at home.”

“I studied fashion at the same school as Kenneth’s wife,” says Cärol Ott when we join her in her workshop in Sitsi, a neighboring district. “In Tallinn, everyone knows everyone,” assures the fashion designer, aged 29, while tasting a kimchi roll. Her collections have won awards in Ukraine and Estonia where the designer is one of the young established talents.

“Tallinn is a small capital, on a human scale. It’s easy to move quickly from one point to another, continues Cärol Ott. The city is constantly buzzing with an offer that has nothing to be ashamed of compared to that of the major European metropolises. Of course, if we think of Paris, back home, the fashion scene is tiny. The market is very limited, mainly because people here don’t like bright colors. They wear black, navy, a little beige, while I create colorful clothes.”

The DNA of the CarolxOtt brand is found on Prangli, an Estonian island in the Gulf of Finland, inhabited by 80 inhabitants who make their living mainly from tourism in summer and fishing. It is located between Tallinn and Helsinki. “I collaborate with some of them who produce hand-knitted woolen mittens and hats for me with the wool of their sheep. According to the stylist, “Estonia has a natural link with Nordic design which is very popular”.