But who are these geeks passionate about skin? Most were already into science in high school. Some have done a year or two of medicine or pharmacy, others are even doctors or biological engineers. Some have worked in laboratories, including laboratory assistants with training as beauticians, others have simply improvised themselves as experts, driven by a passion for the world of beauty in general and the skin. especially.
But what they all share is a good sense of marketing, and, above all, digital know-how. Like Myriam (@myssyjym, 206k) who, after training in biochemistry, worked in a pharmaceutical laboratory, then for the brand The Ordinary, where she produced content for their social networks. Or Louis (@skincarebylouisoff, 250k), a graduate in aesthetics and a master 2 in business school, who studied with big names in cosmetics, with a stint at the Sephora training center. Those whose scientific discourse is rather strong: Amoudax (@amoudax, 234k), biochemist and cosmetic chemist, Sophie Strobel (@demaquillages, 13.4k), biochemical engineer, Cyrille Laurent (@cyrille_ laurentfr, 45k), doctor in biology and who was a researcher.
Why follow them?
“There are a lot of similar products with active ingredients with complicated names. They come to us to make a choice, to avoid playing the little chemist and emptying their wallet unnecessarily,” explains Myriam. “We are asked all the time what to put on your skin, and also to provide personalized skincare,” adds Louis. This is the whole point of these influencers: listening to them take great pleasure in deciphering what is written on the label, revealing what is hidden behind a pseudo-scientific name, comparing products to their objectives and similar efficiencies, but in several price ranges, and thus find the cheapest. A must.
Their accounts are full of educational posts, which explain the benefits of retinol or hyaluronic acid, or the downsides of silicone. They also take the floor to passionately detail the formula of a particular deodorant or anti-aging cream, or to analyze the active ingredients of a supposedly miraculous lotion. But, to capture our attention and attract new followers, they above all need to find a tone (and, often, good filters!).
We get asked all the time what to put on your skin, and also to provide personalized skincare
The regular rants of some make it their signature and a proof of “sincerity”. They do not hesitate, for example, to burn down a known treatment. Others work on their layout (which avoids showing themselves in front of the camera, a rather rare feature, therefore), like the kawaii manga-style posts of Coralie (@Chokomag, 91k), which target a female audience rather young. There are some more relaxed ones, like @demaquillages and @kleobeaute (22K), who opt for an intimate atmosphere. We learn, we laugh, we find nuggets but, above all, we integrate into a community.
The Holy Grail: finding the one that suits you. Because what is good for some is not necessarily good for others. Everyone has their specialty: acne and spots for Myriam, K Beauty for Louis… Jonathan (@yehocares, 8.2k) invites men to take care of their skin without complexes and specializes in advice for dark skin, a market which still lacks visibility. We can regret that their analysis of products often stops at the treatments offered in pharmacies and in mass distribution, perfumery or niche brands with high prices are less deciphered. And for good reason: they must either buy them or receive them free of charge from the brands themselves…
What about communication?
The downside of success is that they are more and more often affiliated with brands. When an influencer becomes a professional, he must find remuneration… We therefore check on the post if it is a partnership. And we are not surprised if, as their notoriety increases, the reviews of a product, those which signify their credibility, decrease drastically…
The strong link with their community has not escaped the brands, who seek their good graces through partnerships, discount codes, but not only that. Their involvement often goes beyond the simple promotion of a makeup remover. It can take the form of consulting, which is much more engaging: “As an expert, I am asked to test the prototypes before they arrive on the market, which allows brands to have a point of reference. comparison on textures, fragrances, sensoriality and, above all, the effectiveness of their range,” explains Coralie.
Say goodbye to your acne with skin care!
Amoudax has just announced on Instagram its entry into the Filorga team, which will give it the opportunity to follow the development of future products. In addition to being present on networks and in labs, most of these content creators diversify their activity with books: “Say goodbye to your acne with skin care!” », by Myriam (ed. Amethyste), “Skincare”, by @secretdepeau and @chokomag, “Skin Care expert”, by @rose-lucy (ed. First), 489k. Some even develop their own brand, hence the anti-imperfection patches from Léonard (@leonardmzr, 75k) or the Cyla range from Cyrille Laurent.
And my skin in all this?
During “lives”, it is possible to ask them questions and hope to receive an answer on their account or in a private message. The most interesting thing is to have them make a diagnosis. Following a series of questions about our skin, our habits… we receive a suggested routine linked to brands which can be modulated according to our budget. Can also be done by video via WhatsApp. An “inventory” which always leads to shopping.
An “inventory” which always leads to shopping
Some, like Skin Cafeine (a distribution network created by @secretdepeau and @chokomag), have the choice validated by a dermatologist. The approach is ultimately not very different from that practiced in drugstores, perfumeries or institutes with an experienced professional, capable of judging needs by looking at and even touching the skin…
Another solution proposed by @skincafeine: organize “physical” appointments in pop-up stores, with the possibility of meeting beauty coaches and testing treatments and, subsequently, purchasing them online. But, here again, the choice is made among the brands recommended by the organizers. So, shall we test?
And the dermatologists?
Adored by everyone, the real gurus on networks in the United States – and in particular on TikTok – are dermatologists! Their reputation? It is built in particular thanks to the recommendations of stars (like Pharrell Williams and his dermatologist Elena Jones). Some even have aesthetic centers and a range of products bearing their image. In France, doctors cannot advertise: no medi-spa in their name or anti-aging or anti-acne creams.
They have long been cautious on social networks. A new generation is launching by offering a multitude of advice (French doctors can in fact recommend products), like @dermato_drey. Result: she has nearly a hundred thousand followers on Insta.
