For a moment, the flame flickered. Would the continuous rains that fell on the vines for months dampen the hopes of bottling the first organic vintage of Hospices de Beaune wines (Côte-d'Or)? And thus put out the fire of a conversion process towards environmentally friendly vine cultivation, undertaken since 2017?
The pressure was heavy on the strong shoulders of Ludivine Griveau, manager of this prestigious Burgundian wine estate. “Before the flower, when we could still save some of the harvest, I went to see the director of the Hospices to ask him whether or not we were continuing this last step towards conversion to organic. He said we had to continue”she says. And she adds: “It is a luxury to be able to carry out the cultivation I believed in, ignoring the probable loss of harvest. »
The evaporation of the harvest could be estimated when the company Sotheby's revealed, in its Parisian premises, the number of pieces which will be auctioned on Sunday November 17 in Beaune. For the 164e edition of this charity sale, also a barometer of the Burgundy wine market closely scrutinized by professionals, 438 pieces and three sheets will go under the auctioneer's hammer (a piece or barrel contains 228 liters and a sheet corresponds to half a -barrel), to be compared to the 802 pieces submitted for auction in 2023. As for the charity piece, known as the “presidents’ piece”, the highlight of the auction, the proceeds of which are intended for two charitable associations, it will contain prime beaune vintage “Les Bressandes”. “The favorite” of the manager, “passed this year in front of some great wines”according to him.
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Ludivine Griveau, who says she is proud to have completed the organic certification of the 60-hectare estate, describes the 2024 vintage as“experimental”. From October 2023, rain entered the scene. “At first, we said to ourselves: ‘It’s going to stop raining. The weather will improve.” In fact, the rain never stopped”she testifies. Enough to slow down work in the vineyards, whether planting or soil fertilization.
However, in April, a sunny episode suggests a generous harvest. The decision was even made to remove a few buds so as not to overload the vine. But the hope was quickly disappointed by a continuation of the weather soap opera under the sign of the yoyo. Cold episodes followed tropical episodes. To the point that the vine, focused on its survival, favored the growth of tendrils to the detriment of fruit. Without forgetting that the ambient humidity and dew favored the development of mildew. This disease caused by a fungus, the bane of winegrowers, appeared very early, at the end of April. She then never let go of the pressure, attacking fiercely again in July. Powdery mildew also came to spoil the party.
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