Why Jewish families in New York are feasting at Chinese restaurants on Christmas Day
On Christmas Day, a typical New York scene unfolds in Chinatown: Jewish families crowd to enjoy Chinese feasts. This unique tradition, deeply rooted in American Jewish culture, has developed over the decades. But why are New York Jews turning to Chinese food on December 25? A look back at a culinary custom that has become emblematic.
A festive alternative to traditional Christmas
For Joanna Nissim, a native New Yorker, Christmas has never been a major event. “My family celebrates Hanukkah, we don't have a Christmas tree, and roast turkey has never appealed to us,” she says. On the other hand, she is looking forward to a Chinese banquet. This habit, shared by many Jewish families, is an opportunity to get together around a table and celebrate a day differently.
This tradition goes beyond simple taste pleasure. “Christmas is our busiest day of the year,” confirms James Tang, partner at Hwa Yuan restaurant in New York. He explains that the attendance even exceeds that of the Chinese New Year, illustrating the importance of this day for Jewish communities.
A tradition born from the shared history of Jews and Chinese
Rabbi Joshua Plaut, specialist in this custom and author of the book A Kosher Christmas, traces the origins of this practice. He says it dates back to the late 19th century, when the first waves of Jewish and Chinese immigrants settled in Manhattan's Lower East Side. These two communities shared a major commonality: neither of them celebrated Christmas.
In this multicultural environment, Chinese restaurants have become a natural option for Jews looking to mark the day in a festive way, without embracing Christian traditions. Chinese cuisine has also become established for practical reasons: it generally does not mix dairy products and meat, which makes it more easily compatible with kosher dietary rules.
From Eastern Europe to New York: an evolution of practices
Jews' relationship with Christmas often reflects their degree of integration into the surrounding society. In Eastern Europe, Christmas was often a time of danger, marked by pogroms and violence. In these contexts, Jewish families stayed at home to protect themselves.
In Western Europe, after the French Revolution, Jews became more assimilated, sometimes adopting certain aspects of Christian holidays, such as gift-giving or even the Christmas tree. Theodor Herzl, emblematic figure of Zionism, also had a Christmas tree at his home. In the United States, this assimilation has taken a different form: a marriage between cultural identity and adaptation to a predominantly Christian country.
A custom that remains unique to America
While this tradition thrives in New York, it has not truly crossed the Atlantic. In London, for example, few Chinese restaurants are open on Christmas Day. However, some Londoners are starting to take inspiration from their American counterparts. Establishments like Kai Feng, a kosher Chinese restaurant in Hendon, are opening their doors to meet this growing demand.
A Chinese-style Christmas: a unique celebration
For American Jewish families, the Chinese meal on December 25 is much more than just a meal. It symbolizes a way of participating in the festive spirit of Christmas while preserving their own cultural identity. This tradition also testifies to the richness of exchanges between immigrant communities and their capacity to create new customs that endure.
So, whether you're in New York or elsewhere, why not celebrate a Jewish and Chinese-style Christmas this year?
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