In North Finistère, the former house of the lighthouse keepers of Île Vierge has become a chic and comfortable eco-lodge. We tested it.
From afar, you can only see it. An interminable column of cut stone standing on a confetti of rocks near the mouth of the Aber Wrac’h, a magnificent estuary speckled with islands and tagged with all shades of blue north of Brest. Between the Iroise Sea with its raging currents and the English Channel, along a coastline dotted with sharp reefs, the lighthouse of the Île Vierge stands watch. On a clear day, from its summit at 82.5 metres, you can see Ouessant to the southwest and the Île de Batz due east.
At the turn of the 20th century, this colossus made of kersantine (a type of granite) took over from the small white tower hidden in its shadow. Until 2010, the square base of the old lighthouse housed the keepers’ house. This is where you can now spend the night, lulled by the waves and the concert of seabirds, gulls and oystercatchers, 1500 meters from the coast. With real talent, the Abers tourist office has set up a rustic and chic eco-lodge there, powered by rainwater and energy, by photovoltaic panels and mini wind turbines.
Careful details
Eugenie Ragot
As for the decoration, all the details are also carefully thought out: brass light fixtures found on boats, a long stylish wooden table, beautiful tableware, etc. Under the white vaults, the dining room exudes a crazy charm. Opposite, the granite floor steeped in history welcomes a cozy living room with a large comfortable sofa, coffee table and old trunks. We almost wish for a storm to take refuge there and immerse ourselves in one of the beautiful books on lighthouses and the sea.
Upstairs, four comfortable bedrooms with herringbone oak parquet flooring open onto the sea. Two of them have box beds, these traditional Breton beds closed by half-timbering to retain heat.
The highlight of the lodge? The space that housed the lantern, 33 meters above the ground, has become a spectacular place to contemplate the island, its horizon… and the large neighboring lighthouse.
Glaz Picture
What to do on these 6 hectares of land and stone? You can jump from one rock to another and go around the island (from the end of July, after the birds have nested), fish for limpets on foot at low tide, laze around on a piece of thick, soft lawn and, above all, dream facing the sea, whatever the weather, thinking about the lives of the former guardians.
Between June and September, a guide provides tours of the large lighthouse, which is open during the day between mid-April and October. Visitors board a shuttle from the port of Aber Wrac’h or Plouguerneau. There, you can discover the interior of the spectacular barrel, lined with 12,500 opaline plates, a mixture of glass powder and sheep bone that repels moisture. An endless staircase winds up against the walls with their blue reflections to lead to the watch path tirelessly beaten by the wind. It is also an opportunity to learn that the island, briefly inhabited in the 15th century by monks, served as pasture for coastal farmers and a stopover for seaweed harvesters before welcoming its first keepers in 1845. Today, its guests are lovers of the sea and those who enjoy unusual nights.
Abers Tourist Office: Tel.: 02 98 04 05 43. abers-tourisme.com
Online booking only.
Three accommodation options available from mid-February to mid-December: 2 nights from Monday to Wednesday and from Friday to Sunday; one night on Wednesday.
Capacity: 9 people. 4 bedrooms. Total price: €940.
Transfer provided by Vedettes des Abers, departing from the tip of Castel Ac’h to Lilia Plouguerneau. Package: €200 return for 9 people. Tel: 06 71 04 25 40. vedettes-des-abers.com
