Paris 9th: Clay according to Romain Lamon

Emma and Romain © GP

Romain Lamon? A discreet gifted chef in modern cuisine, who moved to the Ritz (with Michel Roth and Arnaud Faye) after completing his classes at Bristol and Epicure, under the guidance of Eric Frechon. He had revealed himself at Polissons on rue Ramey, in the 18th. Here he is now, and recently, after a change of life, in a bare-bones setting, without any fuss, where this 38-year-old creator expresses himself in an open kitchen.

Beetroot tartare, candied egg yolk © GP

The place is called Argile, located between two other gourmet addresses on the wise rue de Milan, a few steps from the Casino de Paris. Its strengths? A golden lunch menu at very reasonable prices and a choice of unique wines recommended by the smiling sommelier Emma Aurelio, Colombian with an Italian accent (although she was born near Bogota, her father is transalpine). On the program: dishes that are pretty to the eye and tasty to taste, well seasoned, light, vinegary and easily digestible.

Roasted scallops, pointed cabbage, beard cream © GP

We will immediately tip our hat to the fantastic beetroot transformed into a tartare with its egg yolk confit with soy, its mustard seeds, as well as to the superb poultry, tender and crunchy at the same time, presented with a crushed potatoes and a tangy sabayon. But everything that is served here is in unison, worth the stop and the tasting.

Beef cheek ravioli, smoked haddock © GP

Thus, the beef cheek ravioli which are seasoned with diced smoked haddock and the roast scallops with pointed cabbage and beard cream, also very well done, seductive and even exciting, like the roast sea bream with its celery mousseline, white wine sauce.

Roast poultry, crushed potato, tangy sabayon © GP

On this we drink organic wines which claim their naturalness and are light, like the Aphros Loureiro “vinho verde doc” from Portugal, from the Loureiro grape variety in 2023, the natural Corsican red from the Santa Maria “Tranoi” estate in IGP Ile of Beauty made from Nielluciu and Grenache in 2022 or the seductive and even flattering Côtes du Rhône red 2019 from Clos des Mourres “grain de Mourres”, harmoniously uniting syrah, grenache and cinsault.

Rice pudding, sorrel ice cream © GP

The desserts are of the same ilk, like the rice pudding with its unique and fresh sorrel ice cream with a hint of mint and the divine very slightly sweet chocolate mousse with hazelnuts and caramel ice cream: to melt on the spot. Two small downsides: frankly dry (homemade) bread and paper napkins which hardly highlight the beautiful homemade plates. But these are trifles that can easily be improved!