Laurent Nègre and the aligot © GP
We've told you everything about this star bistro, winner of our “2024/2025 bistro trophy”, its star innkeeper, its chatter and its lovely, communicative mood, in short this extraordinary place which ticks all the boxes of the ideal bistro. Do not miss the model and historic zinc from Nectoux, nor the mosaics on the floor, nor the homemade terrines, nor the know-how applied to everything, nor the wonderful and always surprising choice of wines with real wines as we like them. . We would almost forget to criticize the paper napkins which clash with the quality served here.
Oeuf May © GP
The magnificent innkeeper, who succeeds in doubling with talent on rue Saint-Benoît, by taking over the favorite bistro of Serge Gainsbourg and Marguerite Duras, is Laurent Nègre, from Aveyron from Saint-Geniez-d'Olt who became a natural Parisian, a man art (and bacon), knowing how to spin aligot with mastery. For our lunch to launch the bistro guide, he treated us in particular, in his lair on rue Montorgueil, to his mayonnaise eggs to eat “cul sec”, his goldsmith's foie gras, his beautiful game terrine and his admirable sweetbreads. veal with Paimpol coconuts.
Stuffed cabbage terrine © GP
We returned there recently, just to verify that this king of the Parisian bistro really deserved his crown. The answer is, obviously, yes, with its mayo eggs with still trembling yolks, and their well mustarded mayo, like the amusing mayo scallops in the same way or even this stuffed cabbage terrine with its well-condimented sausage meat, like a masterpiece of popular art. Add the tender, tasty rib of beef, of Limousin origin, from neighboring Tribolet, served with a melting aligot, plus a nicely tarragoné béarnaise.
Prime rib © GP
Desserts? A sure classic, between fondant tarte Tatin with its raw cream, (very) vanilla Parisian flan and lemon meringue tart as light as a breeze. We add the liquid to match, such as the Marsannay white Les Longeroies de René Bouvier in Gevrey-Chambertin 2022, the red (Syrah, Granche, Mourvèdre) Terrasses du Larzac grande cuvée du Mas Laval in Aniane in Hérault 2021, the apricot liqueur from Guy Roulot or, more classically, the old Souillac plum from Maison Roque. In short, one of those meals that put your heart in joy and your palate in celebration and make you exclaim, in finelive the bistros and long live France!
Desserts © GP
La Grille Montorgueil
50, rue Montorgueil
Paris 2nd
Such. 01 42 33 21 21
Menus : 19 (formula, lunch), 28 (lunch) €
Carte : 35-55 €
Schedules : 8h-2h
Weekly closing. : Open every day
Nearby metro(s): Trail, Etienne-Marcel, les Halles.
Site: lagrille.paris