This Sunday, December 1st, head to Montmartre. We forget everything we know about kebab and head to rue Ramey, in the 18th, for the third edition of DÖNER TAKEÖVER. The brief: at each edition, Mehmet, a serious contender for the title of best kebab in Paris, invites chefs to master the art of döner. For their first drum, Julien Catelain and Matthieu Haddak, the owners (two friends, ex-Servan)hosted Aaron J. Rosenthal, former sous chef at Septime and labneh specialist at Adar. Then, it was the turn of Antoine Villard, who also worked in the kitchens of Septime and Double Dragon, all before opening his own bistro, Dandelion.
For this new round, two local talents are tackling the spit this time; Antonin Girard, chef at the head of Pantobaguette, below, and Minh-Tri Tran Dinh, a genius itinerant cook and well-known neighbor of the locals. Result, on the brunch menu this weekend: veal breast with yogurt and gochujang, XO-viet-d'anchovies, radicchio, coriander and guindillas (from sweet peppers). And, of course, a gaggle of mezze and sides such as double-cooked fries with white mayo and sriracha with smoked pumpkin, fried cauliflower-gochujang ketchup and roasted sesame, or even roasted marinated wings, lemon, kaffir lime and coriander condiments. A kebab that bridges the gap between the Mediterranean and Asia. On the practical side, it is walk-in only : no reservation, first come, first served. It takes place at 43 rue Ramey, in the 18th, between 12 p.m. and 4 p.m. Any advice? Come early, because previous editions were a huge success.
