“You have to be very, very generous with the truffle”

L‘A little absent air, Thierry Beccaro listens to Anne Alassane describes her risotto with semi-cooked foie gras and truffles. La Cheffe, which made itself known by winning the first edition of the TV program “Masterchef” in 2010, launched itself into its vegetable broth, “thanks to the ornaments that have been kept and the mushroom tails”.

To work more at her ease, she passes the microphone to Thierry Beccaro. The mythical animator of “motus” suddenly finds the gully good humor which made the heyday of France 2 for years: “When we speak of the rubber tail, it is that of the fungus. But it is true that it is better when it is firm. And then if it’s a little soft, it does not matter … Zou! At the broth! I will explain to you, Bernard. By his side, Bernard the rooster borders on the eye in front of a delighted audience.

These Saturday, January 25 and Sunday, January 26, the town of Sorges-et-Ligueux-en-Périgord (Dordogne) bathes in the scent of humus of the truffle, of which it is the party (see below). Started on Friday January 24, truffles in madness continues all weekend and will end in apotheosis with a meal of 650 guests on Sunday.

Folie truffles will finish in apotheosis with a meal of 650 guests

Cavers tips

In the morning, Saturday, the first visitors were on all fours. Truffle dogs, competition animals, like Orus, the Tervueren Belgian Shepherd belonging to Julien Gomez, Lot. Qualified for the French championship of February 8, in Sorges, it took him “between 1 minute and 1 minute 30 to find six truffles hidden underground, in a square of five by five”.

A little behind, Morgane Gras listens to Julien Gomez. She holds a leash Pia, a female Australian shepherd, to whom she learns to look for truffles as she can. Until recently, it is impossible to dig up the famous Tuber Melanosporum at the foot of the few truffle oaks she has at home. “I tried to soak a toy of truffle oil, which I hide. Happy pick: since then, Pia finds truffles in the garden.

Laurent and Brigitte Chastel invite themselves into the conversation. For years, they had a dog that could not find truffles at the foot of their mycorrhiza oaks. But he died and, for a week, they have been walking with Violette, “a border collie woman, mixed with Je-Ne-Sais-quoi”. They too would like to introduce him to the mysteries of the cavage.

200 kg of PATATES

Under the large marquee, a more numerous audience follows on a large screen the making of Anne Alassane’s risotto. On the kitchens, Vincent and Garris are busy. Both in BTS Restoration in Boulazac-Isle-Manoire, they must peel the 200 kg of potatoes to make the grated truffle puree that will accompany the duck sausages served in the evening.

They work under the gaze of Maurice Crombach, an ex-Cuistot colossus, ex-boxer and ex-rugby player, who pilots the chore. He himself embarked on a carcasses soup that will be served the next day, Sunday, at the start of the truffle omelettes. “We will be 60 in kitchens because they are made per unity,” he describes.

At the level of the Passe-Plat, Pierre Corre, the former chief of the Truffle inn (for forty years), who resumed service for the occasion. It is he who, at the last moment, rectifies the seasonings, controls the plates, adds the truffle. The secret of his omelet? “You have to be very, very generous with the truffle. »»

Sunday program

From 7 to 1 p.m., producers and craftsmen’s market. At 9:30 a.m., truffle controlled market and competition from the biggest truffle. At 10:30 a.m., sponsorship of truffle trees in the municipal truffle garden. At 10:45 a.m., brotherhood parade. At 11:30 a.m., enthusiasts in the brotherhood of the learned college of masters of truffle and foie gras from Périgord. At 12:30 p.m., festive lunch and at 3 p.m., Jean-Claude Pargney conference: “Truffles to consume without moderation. »»