Paris Men’s Fashion Week welcomes the return of Jacquemus, Lanvin and many others

After a summer session last June conditioned by preparations for the Olympic Games, Paris is back in the spotlight, confirming itself this winter as the capital of men’s fashion. Fashion Week, which begins this Tuesday, January 21, will run until January 26 with proposals for fall-winter 2025/2026. On display, 68 brands including 38 fashion shows and 30 presentations, featuring Jacquemus and Lanvin, which are making their big comeback in the men’s calendar, new international names and numerous events, including the celebration of 130 years of Berluti and the inauguration at the Louvre, on January 23, for the first time in the history of the museum, of an exhibition entirely dedicated to fashion and its inspiration: Louvre Couture. Art objects, fashion objects.

The Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion (FHCM) can count on the tenors of luxury, from Louis Vuitton which parades on the opening night with the fourth collection of Pharrell Williams, to Dior Homme, Hermès, Kenzo, Rick Owens , Ami Paris, as well as almost complete Japanese houses. Eleven of them will parade, including Issey Miyake, who will unveil on Thursday January 23, the very first parade of his IM Men line, launched in 2021 and led by Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi. For the occasion, the brand is presenting the innovative approach of IM Men from January 24 to 26, via a temporary exhibition.

Last season, Paris Fashion Week had 37 shows (and 41 a year ago). In this winter edition, seven shows are missing, compensated however by eight arrivals, including three new names and five returns. Starting with that of Simon Porte Jacquemus, scheduled for the last day, Sunday January 26 and entitled “La Croisière”. For this comeback, the brand announces a partnership with Apple, which will allow “an innovative approach to capturing fashion shows live using the professional camera system of the iPhone 16 Pro Max”.

The stylist has no longer paraded in the Parisian calendar since January 2020 with men and since March 2019 with women, preferring special destinations, such as the Villa Malaparte in Capri, the Maeght Foundation in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the gardens of the Palace of Versailles or the lavender fields of Provence, to name just a few. He returns as a star, while his house has seen its growth explode over the last four years.

Another highly anticipated return, that of Lanvin, which will close the week on Sunday evening. This will be an opportunity for the oldest French fashion house, whose last Parisian show dates back to March 2023, to unveil the first mixed collection for men and women from its new creative director Peter Copping.

Also returning to the podium are brands that opted for different formats last season due to the Olympic Games. Like EgonLab, Officine Générale and Paul Smith, who presented his summer collection as part of an event at Pitti Uomo in Florence.

Eyes will also be riveted this week on the three designers who will make their first steps in the men’s calendar. Starting with the premium fashion label 3.Paradis, launched in 2013 by Emeric Tchatchoua. Born to Cameroonian parents, the designer, crowned in 2024 with the Andam Special Prize, grew up between Paris and Montreal, in Canada. It advocates a multicultural spirit mixing formal codes, streetwear and beautiful materials, while highlighting artisanal know-how and new technologies. He has already paraded for two seasons alongside Fashion Week, which he officially joins this Wednesday, January 22.

The same day will be the opportunity to discover Steven Stokey Daley, creator from Liverpool. Winner of the LVMH Prize in 2022, specialized in menswear precious and inventive, he revisits the codes of British tradition with his SS Daley brand launched in 2020.

Another novelty, which should attract crowds on Friday 24, the very first Parisian fashion show by New Yorker Willy Chavarria. Born to an Irish-American mother and a Mexican-American father, the 57-year-old Latin American designer, who founded his house in 2015, is known for his sexy and committed menswear, which revisits the tailoring by mixing it with chic streetwear.

Among the other events not to be missed are the fashion shows of creative brands, including Walter Van Beirendonck, LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi, Bluemarble, 032c, Hed Mayner and KidSuper. If various young French and international brands maintain their shows at Fashion Week at all costs, many however seem not to be able to afford it.

So no longer appear on the program Burc Akyol, who started in Paris in June 2023, the Englishwoman Grace Wales Bonner, as well as Undercover and Bianca Saunders, who opt for a presentation. This season it is part of the Sphere showroom operated by the FHCM and supported by the DEFI, which also welcomes Cachí, CREOLE, La Cage, Lagos Space Programme, Lazoschmidl, Les Fleurs Studio and Ouest Paris.

Added to these defections is that of Dries Van Noten. To succeed its emblematic eponymous founder, the brand has just appointed stylist Julian Klausner, who will present his first men’s collection through a lookbook, while he will organize his first fashion show, with women’s, in March.

Another notable absentee is Loewe, the Spanish luxury brand owned by LVMH, which has enjoyed growing success under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson for more than ten years. The latter would be leaving to arrive at the bedside of another house in the group…