The double revenge of Gianfranco Ferré

Carla Bruni from behind, fall-winter 1991-1992 ready-to-wear collection. GIAN PAOLO BARBIERI. COURTESY OF GIANFRANCO FERRÉ RESEARCH CENTER, POLITECNICO DI MILAN.

Guy Bourdin, Peter Lindbergh, Bettina Rheims, Herb Ritts, Patrick Demarchelier, Gian Paolo Barbieri, Michel Comte, Steven Meisel… The list is impressive. These eight photographers, sometimes polar opposites, will coexist until March in an exhibition at Fort Bard, in the Aosta Valley, in Italy, for a common subject: the fashion of Gianfranco Ferré.

The Italian designer born in 1944, imposing, music-loving and angry, had them “sought after even before they were famous”, he recalled, a bit shy, in his autobiographical story, Letters to a young fashion designer (Balland, 1995). “Ferré’s curiosity pushed him to let his fashion express itself through eclectic languages. He could share the taste for sophisticated compositions with Barbieri, classical and antique references with Ritts or the pleasure of disorienting with Bourdin. comments Paola Bertola, professor at the Polytechnic School of Milan and scientific director of the Gianfranco Ferré Research Center.

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