Built in a Parisian spirit, with its Beaux-Arts style facade and its rich neo-Louis XVI molded interior decor, this palace has become legendary, in the same way as the Ritz in Paris, the Negresco in Nice or the Sacher in Vienna. The royal suite notably welcomed Prince Hirohito in 1910 and the same, who became Emperor of Japan, in 1958, during the second Universal Exhibition. But the hotel has also hosted personalities like Winston Churchill, Maurice Chevalier, Salvador Dalí and Marguerite Yourcenar.
Like the phoenix
But since its closure in 2007, the building, listed in September 2000, had slowly fallen into disrepair… Bought in 2008 by a Saudi hotel group, its restoration was ultimately unsuccessful. We had to wait until 2016, and its takeover by the international group of luxury hotels Corinthia (founded in Malta in 1962 by the Pisani family), to see things move.
In the fall of 2024, after eight long years of work entrusted to Francis Metzger’s MA2 architectural office, the palace will regain its former glory. Perched 11 meters high, the glass roof – dismantled after the war because rainwater seeped into it – has been reproduced identically, using period photos. While the ballroom has almost regained its moldings and splendor.
This new five-star hotel in Brussels will have 126 rooms and suites, a 1000 m2 spa in collaboration with Sisley and a Paul Tucker Gym. And even a cocktail bar “Under The Stairs”, entrusted to the charismatic Hannah Van Ongevalle, from a large family of mixologists, notably at the origin of the bar “The Pharmacy” in Knokke.
Making Brussels shine internationally
The Corinthia Grand Hotel Astoria Brussels will also have a very high-level gastronomic offer, with two renowned Belgian chefs at the helm. Chef David Martin, two stars at The peace in Anderlecht, will be at the head of Royal Palace, the hotel’s 36-seat gourmet table. While Christophe Hardiquest, who received a star for Mensaits new address, will take care of the high-end brasserie with 60 seats, which will bear the name Little Bon Bon in homage to its unforgettable former two-star address, Candy. Installed in the fabulous setting of this new Brussels palace, the two chefs have the ambition to make the capital of Europe shine internationally.
David Martin will offer French cuisine in the morning with Japanese influences. Not just in the ingredients, as often, but with a deep knowledge of the most advanced Japanese culinary techniques. And by selecting the most impressive, most unique products on the market, whether they come from here or elsewhere.
For his part, Christophe Hardiquest will offer a brasserie menu that will draw inspiration from Belgian and French classics. Who better than him to tackle this? In the summer of 2017, a stone’s throw from Flagey, he launched a pop-up bistro My summer bistro, where he enjoyed exceptional fries and a delicious Brussels-style mussel gratin. While in his old Candyhe was one of the only Belgian chefs to creatively explore the culinary heritage of our country.
Two chefs in tune who intend to make Brussels shine internationally…
A taste of the two restaurants in picnic mode
That evening, we groped around… We looked for the front door of the future Corinthia Grand Hotel Astoria Brussels. This is because the facade is still hidden under the scaffolding and the glass and ironwork portal is still covered in dust. On the other hand, the “A”, surrounded by golden laurels which crowns the door, is already gleaming.
We are indeed on Rue Royale, at the Astoria Palace, in what was one of the most prestigious hotels in the capital… No doubt either, once you have passed the entrance hall, the palace is still under renovation… Boards, cables, cans of paint… lying here and there, and the floor is still covered with chipboard.
But as soon as you enter the atrium, you can already see what will become the “Palm Court”. And we can already imagine coming there to have tea and some pastries surrounded by beautiful plants…
Appetizer
But for now, in this atrium, below the impressive 15 meter long glass roof, there is a unique table which was set by “Les Tables de Joséphine”, with a green toile de Jouy tablecloth and some bucolic floral arrangements.
David Martin and Christophe Hardiquest warmly welcome the dozen guests who have come to taste some of the creations that will set the tone for their future menus… In the fall, David Martin (The peace**, Anderlecht) will inaugurate Royal Palacethe gourmet restaurant of the luxury hotel, and Christophe Hardiquest (Mensa*, Woluwe-Saint-Pierre), the brewery The Little Bon Bon.
If the kitchens are already installed, they are not yet functional. It is therefore in “wild” mode that the two star chefs will cook, with some rented equipment. With a few cutlets of Ruinart, we bite into sandwich bread turnovers with Grevenbroecker, the best Belgian blue cheese. It’s smooth, clever like Hardiquest… We want more!
In gastro and brasserie mode
When we sit down at the table, David Martin’s first starter appears like origami. “These are Norwegian shrimp! The sweetest shrimp ever”, says the chef. They are offered with a seasonal accompaniment, white asparagus from Mechelen and candied rhubarb. And are seasoned with lemon, verbena oil, caviar and especially shiokara – an intense condiment made with shrimp heads – which perfectly counterbalances the extreme sweetness of the shellfish and stracciatella.
Then comes the turn of Hardiquest, who dares to make a simple mussel soup. But what soup! He tells his story: “It’s a Billie Bye soup, which was invented in the United States by a French chef for a senator… I added Belgian condiments and croutons. ”
When it comes to the dish, David Martin still surprises with this mixture of condiments with yuzu kosho (a fermented mixture of chili, lemon and salt) and sweet and sour with jalapeños (Mexican peppers). “What’s interesting is that we have all the aroma and sugar of kosho and we have the strength of two peppers, one very round and one sharp, all powerful,” Martin explains. Condiments which perfectly complemented a few slices of veal and giant prawns and a more classic stuffed morel.
It is in the classic repertoire of French cuisine that the chef of Mensa was going to get his meal: “The oeuf meurette, signature dish of Clos Vougeot in Burgundy! The word “meurette” means “sauce” in old French and, in the past, brined eggs were made. Here, we will smoke the eggs, bread them and fry them. And in the red wine sauce, we put local pork, Ardenne Quality Pork.” A truly delicious proposition!
When it was time for dessert, the chef would draw on his Liège roots to brilliantly twist the eternal white lady, with juniper berries and pékèt. But David Martin hasn’t said his last word with this sweet bite: a hollow cannelé welcoming a strawberry compote and a siphon of blue vanilla cream. Be careful, kill!
What we also particularly liked was the complicity between the two chefs, determined not to confine themselves to their respective kitchens and to sometimes collaborate. A spirit of solidarity and kindness that we salute. These two future restaurants have already excited our taste buds!
