The end of year celebrations are the perfect opportunity to open a bottle of champagne. But then who to choose from the plethora of Houses? Discover the first part of our favorites from our great tasting of brut champagnes without year published in “Terre de vins” number 102.
Abelé 1757 Raw
The jury was literally captivated by the very successful balance, between expressiveness and finesse, of this signature cuvée from Maison Abelé, born from the blend of three Champagne grape varieties. Tantalizing, of beautiful complexity, the nose is carried by the freshness of floral, fruity, exotic notes, with a hint of lemon, accompanied by delicious pastry, brioche and buttery aromas. This delectable first impression continues on an ample and delicious palate, invigorated by a present but fine effervescence, and by an appreciable tension on the finish, leaving the palate fresh.
95/100 – €44 – With a scallop carpaccio.
Castelnau Brut
The beautiful expression of the Chardonnays (40%) gives this champagne all its deliciousness, freshness and finesse. Meunier (40%) and Pinot Noir (20%) bring power and balance. At Castelnau, it is the art of aging that is highlighted, with no less than five years on slats for this magnificent Brut. Its register is rather pastry with notes of vanilla and toast. We also find aromas of citrus peel as well as a slight woodiness. The palate presents a beautiful substance with contained freshness. The balance is perfect.
94/100 – €37 – With a lost brioche, shiso leaf sorbet.
Duval Leroy Fleur de Champagne 1ᵉʳ cru
When it was created in 1911, we discerned an aroma of vine flowers on the nose. Hence the name of this superb vintage, composed of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. All the members of the jury in fact smelled the white flowers in the aromatic palette, complemented by fine citrus fruits and toasted and pastry notes. Elegance is evident from the nose. The tight lemony palate is at once precise, delicate and fleshy. Silk seems to dress this graceful, dazzling and lively champagne. Everything is in balance, like a ballerina on her pointes.
95/100 – €46.40 – With a langoustine and scallop sabayon.
Gauthier Brut
Crystalline color and fine, perfectly integrated bubbles. The nose is complex, evolving from delicate floral notes (frangipani) to more fruity aromas (white cherry, candied white fruits). The attack is frank and the mouth full and elegant, with a nice tension between the sweetness of the fruit (peach and pear) and the lively acidity of citrus fruits and green apple. The finish is long and persistent, with notes of bitter almond, brioche and biscuit, testifying to controlled aging. It’s good and refreshing. This Brut champagne is a sure value.
93/100 – €92.90 – With gratinated oysters.
Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale
A champagne that plays the delicacy card brilliantly. The nose displays notes of fresh aromatic herbs and citrus fruits. The taut and chalky palate offers aromas of white flowers and bread crumbs. This fine, fairly refined ensemble is enlivened by a hint of lemon which brings dynamism and freshness. We are here in a very Champagne aesthetic which focuses on subtlety and not on exuberance to delight your palate. It is therefore not surprising that this house could once have been among the prestigious suppliers to the English crown. In this balanced blend of three grape varieties, we will highlight the place of some pretty vintages from the Marne valley: Hautvillers, Damery, Cumières…
96/100 – €39.90 – With an old county.
Louis Roederer Collection 244
The 2019 vintage, very sunny, offered beautifully ripe grapes. To bring back freshness, the cellar master blocked malolactic fermentation on 65% of the wines. And to enhance the complexity, he used reserve wines from all previous vintages through 2012, with a portion having been aged in wood. The result is a distinguished champagne, with a fine effervescence, which is expressed on aromas of white fruits bringing a lovely roundness and on notes of fresh hazelnut reflecting the significant proportion of chardonnay (41%). Add a hint of invigorating citrus, white pepper, the coating side of chalk and here is the complete picture.
97/100 – €60 – With pan-fried scallops in citrus butter.
Find the second part of these favorites Tuesday December 31.
