Black models dressed in black, whites in white and a planet for all: the star designer of the LVMH group, Pharrell Williams, kicked off Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday evening with a daring show on the theme of universalism and diversity at UNESCO.
A collection which “celebrates humans who cohabit on earth” and “the spirit of union” that the French brand wants to convey, according to its press release. A certain universalism made of humans of “the same flesh and blood”.
Singularly, the models paraded to the music of a symphony orchestra, first by skin color, with silhouettes in matching tones: black models in black, mixed race in shades of brown and Caucasians in beige or white, before a big multicolored reunion for the finale.
In terms of silhouette, the Vuitton dandies of summer 2025 go from diplomat suits with smart briefcases to travelers in a hurry, with the look of pilots in XXL leather bombers with hood, cap and glasses.
The black suit will be “the blackest shade” ever created by Vuitton, the press release says in a wink, about these inky velvets, embroidered with silver threads that catch the light.
There will certainly remain from the third collection signed Pharrell Williams for Vuitton, a year after the legendary Pont-Neuf fashion show, a new checkerboard in blue and green, like the colors of a world map, available in costumes and accessories.
-‘All Black’-
This parade with a strong message took place under the strong symbol of the flags of Nations, under a capricious sky, in this high place of multilateralism which is the palace of UNESCO, the UN agency in charge of education , science and culture.
The parade called “The world is yours” also wanted to symbolize the union of the “LVERS” the friends of the brand coming from the four corners of the world, but significantly fewer headliners than before, despite the presence of the actor Omar Sy, the former football international Didier Drogba, the Nigerian singer Burna Boy or the new basketball prodigy, the Frenchman Victor Wembanyama.
The message, the first of this intensity in a heavy political context in France, marked by an unprecedented score from Marine Le Pen’s party, resonated particularly with this front row composed almost exclusively of black personalities.
“We are living in a very tense period, France is opening up to the world like never before, with this parade, with the Olympics and we find ourselves with the possibility of a far-right government which terrifies us”, declared to AFP director Djiby Kebe, from the Kourtrajmé collective, “we vote” badge on the Vuitton suit.
A video from the Air Afrique collective announced the color: children representing the future generation of diplomats, listening to a speech by the writer Aimé Césaire on identity and universalism.
– Regressive –
Men’s Fashion Week was formally launched on Tuesday afternoon with the parade of students from the French Fashion Institute, who brought a regressive wind to the fore, with silhouettes in embroidered diapers, human stuffed animals, fluorescent… .
Men’s fashion week, which presents the spring/summer 2025 collections, will be marked on Sunday by “Vogue World”, a parade-show modeled on the Met Gala organized at Place Vendôme by Vogue magazine, on the theme of Paris and sports.
The Paris Olympics (from July 26) have shaken up the calendar of fashion houses, ordered to complete their outfits two weeks in advance.
In this tight schedule, Balmain, Givenchy and Valentino have thrown in the towel. But Dior Homme, Hermès, Kenzo and even AMI will be there.
Finally, this Fashion Week will be marked by the departure of Belgian Dries Van Noten who will present his last show on Saturday before withdrawing from his brand. It should last until Sunday and will be followed by a haute couture week, until June 27.
