Published on June 17, 2024 at 3:03 p.m. / Modified on June 17, 2024 at 3:27 p.m.
Italy wants to put the brakes on Nutri-Score to defend its culinary heritage. This is also the case for many cheese umbrella companies, which are working to ensure that their products are exempt from the five-color logo. Meanwhile, social networks are seeing the emergence of influencers who defend the region. So many weak signals of “gastro-nationalism” on a European scale, a discourse that Denis Saillard, associate researcher at the Center for the Cultural History of Contemporary Societies at the University of Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, has been studying for twenty years.
Le Temps: In order to slow down Nutri-Score, the Italian government of Giorgia Meloni proposed amending its constitution to protect products “which symbolize national identity”. How is gastronomy a marker of cultural and national identity?
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