In the attic of memories, arranged rums and sausage rougails. The Reunionese restaurant Les Filaos, which has volcanized the palates for almost four decades, has given way to the Café des adjoints. As many restaurateurs find, finding the name of a restaurant is difficult. Assistants? Because the café brasserie is located at Place Fernand-Rey, deputy under Édouard Herriot (1931). Ouaillenote. And then the town hall is not far away. In the role of mayor: Hugo Neyrand. He’s the only one dressed in civilian clothes. The assistants delegated to cocktails or service wear a T-shirt with the name of the establishment.
The menu is French, short, extruded from the poetic pretensions that adorn certain menus. The “watercress velouté with whipped cream”, “plate of house smoked salmon with dill cream” and “duck parmentier” need no comments like “I’ll explain the menu to you”. It will be difficult for us to tell you about the dish of the day. He was due to arrive some time later. Because, by a coincidence which should push us to play more often at the Lyon Vert casino (recently renamed the Pasino), we arrived on the first day of the lunch service. Suffice to say that the address is fresh, there is not a single scratch on the large bar nor the beginning of a chip on the teal wall.
Neighborhood brewery
In fact, we had the “revisited egg mayonnaise” as a starter. Between hard and soft, it sinks into a small grove of thinly sliced salad, croutons and blades of parmesan. The mayonnaise (in reality, we rather say remoulade when there is mustard) is at best: creamy. It makes you feel at ease like the comfortable benches. Another starter: black pudding crumble with apples. Unlike the opponents of all-out crumbeulization, we like this little sandy side, especially as it hides a tasty apple pudding. We again tested the very simple vegetarian dish: gnocchi, squash cream, Manchego cheese with black garlic and walnuts which perhaps deserved more pep.
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The Grenoble-style trout steak (butter, lemon, capers) was perfect, without decorative moldings, simply accompanied by steamed potatoes just cooked. The rice pudding (clementine) and the brioche, massive, however lack a little lace. They have flavor, but seem designed to appeal to those students who dream of never becoming adults – the ones who add cheese to their fries. Overall, it’s good, very nice, clear line style, as they say in comics.
Deputy Café. Place Fernand-Rey, Lyon 1st. 04 28 29 28 90. Tuesday to Sunday.
Prices. Entries between €5.50 and €13.60. Dishes between €16.60 and €24. Desserts between €6 and €9.
Our opinion : 3/4
