Twenty-four years that the defenders of mothais on paper have been waiting for this day! Barring an improbable twist or further postponement of the decision, the goat's cheese from La Mothe-Saint-Héray placed on its chestnut leaf must finally obtain the precious designation of controlled origin. The committee of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (Inao) is due to meet this Thursday, November 21, 2024 and its decision will be recorded after publication in Official Journal.
“We’re ready!” If all goes well, we could have the AOC label on our cheeses from the beginning of 2025”rejoices Laurent Bonneau, goat breeder in Triou, south of Niort, and president of the union for the defense of mothais sur leaf since the retirement of Paul Georgelet. “The AOC protects know-how, it protects a name. It is a label of notoriety which highlights the production. »
“A label that highlights production”
If this recognition took so long to occur, it is because it was necessary to establish very restrictive specifications to regulate the entire sector by following the recommendations of the Inao.
An area that transcends administrative borders.
© (Infographic NR, Flavian Larchier)
Convincing breeders to let their animals out was not easy in a production region where grazing is extremely rare: the goats, which originally ate leaves in the shrubs, are very sensitive to parasites present on the ground, in grass. “It’s complicated, it’s very technical”recognizes Laurent Bonneau. Ultimately, the specifications provide for outdoor grassy exercise areas of 20 m2 per animal and a diet based 60% on grass and fodder.
Convincing industrial producers to accept raw milk was no easy task either. The main company concerned, Poitou Chèvre (which belongs to the giant Savencia) requested an exemption to be able to continue producing mothais with pasteurized milk for fifteen years. Inao must also rule today on this point. When the AOC Chabichou du Poitou switched to raw milk, the large Deux-Sévrienne dairy obtained a five-year exemption.
A mothai weighs at least 180 grams at twelve days old with a diameter of 10 cm.
© (Photo NR, Baptiste Bize)
“For our file to move forward, we had to show strong signs on the management of breedingspecifies the president of the defense union. This involves the grazing charter, the ban on wrapping [herbe fermentée dans des bottes de plastique] or even the addition of clover and alfalfa. »
“Real development potential”
The name also governs the breeds of the goats, the origin of the cereals, the geographical area and even the origin and processing of the chestnut leaves. It sets the size, weight and shape of the cheeses.
“Consumers and citizens must recognize the values of the type of agriculture of a PDO and not confuse the cheeses at the time of purchase”insists Frantz Jénot, director of the regional goat federation.
The Poitevine goat is one of the three breeds of the appellation.
© (Photo NR, Baptiste Bize)
Once the AOC stage has been completed, the union wishes to submit a file for recognition of protected designation of origin at European level. With the hope of developing production, which currently amounts to 300 tonnes of raw milk mothais per year, as much as chabichou. But also to increase the average selling price considered too low, often less than 5 euros per mothais locally for the moment.
The entire industry would benefit. It brings together around fifteen farm producers, around ten breeders delivering milk, four artisan processors and the large Celles-sur-Belle dairy in the area. “There is real potential for development”assures Laurent Bonneau. The recognition of the AOC is only the beginning of the adventure.
