After fifteen years of work due to typhoons and landslides, the Alishan railway, 71.4 kilometers long and 112 years old, has just returned to service. Once empty, the platform in the town of Chiayi is now bustling daily with passengers eager to board this historic train, as evidenced by the report from New York Timespublished Tuesday October 29. “It’s like time travel“, enthuses Huang Yu-mei, a retiree who had already made the journey thirty years previously, to the newspaper.
Before the big departure, the park surrounding the station and the numerous exhibitions evoking the history of this emblematic line, built under the Japanese occupation to transport villagers and workers, can be visited. The red and cream train will then rush through the most beautiful national park on the island of Taiwan, at an altitude of more than 2,180 meters, crossing 49 tunnels and 77 bridges in the middle of the green mountains of Alishan (or Mt. of Ali).
Mythical Orient-Express train: a dream without a terminus
Mountain villages in their own right
The first stop, Zhuqi, is a hidden gem with quiet charm. Passengers can stroll the narrow streets, lined with artisan shops selling souvenirs and local products. In its museum section, the station also offers exhibitions dedicated to the railway history of the region.
The next mountain village is Fenqihu which, with its cobbled streets and wooden houses, tells a rich history, recalling the days when the train transported cypress wood to the cities. This former vacation spot for the lumberjacks of yesteryear is popular with bento box lovers, who can enjoy typical dishes there.
The terminus at the top
The next stop is Shizhuo, a popular stopover for nature lovers. Nestled in the heart of dense forests, it serves as the starting point for several hiking trails. “Walking here is like diving into another world“, marvels Chen Wen-lin, a 22-year-old student, to the New York Times. The lush landscapes, filled with giant bamboo and cedar trees, offer an exceptional natural panorama, revealing more of Alishan’s wild beauty.
Finally comes the legendary stop. Renowned for its spectacular sunrises, Alishan is a place of pilgrimage for nature lovers. “Being here at sunrise is a waking dream“, even the conductor of the train, Huang Zong-li, is moved. The marked trails invite exploration and the Shoufeng temple, surrounded by thousand-year-old cedars, not to mention the lake of the goddess, are unmissable for visitors. The hardest part then remains coming down from the summit, returning to reality.
