The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in white gold

It’s the “gray matter” that makes this skeletonized Royal Oak the best yet. Exclusively discover the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in white gold, a fine watchmaking watch with a refined and modern design that pushes the limits of technique and aesthetics.

A watchmaking masterpiece in white gold

Audemars Piguet unveils its latest creation, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in white gold. If this is not the first skeleton version of the legendary ultra-thin watch, it is undoubtedly my favorite to date. Perfection lies in White gold used for the exterior of the watch, internal and external finishes, and choice of colors. The way the watch combines significant weight with an airy appearance also creates a special feeling.

I had the chance to handle this exclusive watch, limited by its production but which nevertheless takes its place in AP’s regular Royal Oak collection. When I write “regular collection”, I am referring to the 140 references that make up the current range excluding special editions. And there’s hardly anything “regular” in it:

A 44mm white ceramic Royal Oak Grande Complication
The new version of the “Jumbo”, the skeleton reference 16204BC

The power of gray: a clean and modern design

I honestly think this Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked is the most beautiful iteration of the concept to date. Two years ago, AP celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak with the launch of several special models, including the steel 16204ST. Although true to its origins, with its fully visible pale gray movement and rose gold hands, it lacked a bit of punch. The punch came later.

In pink gold (16204OR) or yellow gold (16204BA), the skeleton version of the “Jumbo” is causing a sensation. But the combination of colorful precious metal and a skeletonized movement is a bit too much for my taste. The richness of a colored gold alloy somehow dominates the impressive complexity of an openwork movement. White gold is much more introverted. Using this discreet precious metal and combining it with a movement that has undergone some aesthetic changes, AP has created the best version of the skeletonized “Jumbo”.

Caliber 7121: an exceptional, sublimated movement

It was in the darkness that AP found inspiration. The dark gray movement and black inner bezel give the watch more presence, clarity and visual stability. She seems focused. Certainly, a skeleton movement is a bit like a maze. Done in a light color, it also looks a little blurry, giving a blurry appearance overall.

However, this white gold case and bracelet now serves as the backdrop for a well-articulated skeletonized movement, with visual boundaries thanks to the black outer ring. The white gold hands are in harmony with the case and, thanks to the contrasting movement underneath, they are also practical.

The 211-component self-winding caliber 7124 measures 29.6 × 2.7 mm. This 4 Hz caliber has a power reserve of 57 hours and a thin rotor that turns in both directions on ball bearings. It only displays hours and minutes.

It is the use of dark gray that gives this movement a contemporary and perhaps even industrial look. But it’s manual finishing which brings out the caliber. It is so refined, so subtle and so fascinating, hypnotic even, thanks to the finishing of the smallest piece. No less than 324 (!) hand-polished angles inside the movement. From 30 centimeters away the watch is impressive, but from three centimeters away it is truly breathtaking.

Absolute comfort on the wrist

The “Jumbo” is the perfect size for the Royal Oak. And since the white gold 16204BC has the same dimensions as the 16202 – 39mm in diameter, 8.1mm in thickness and 48.6mm in lug-to-lug length – there were no surprises in it. putting on the wrist. The quality of finish of the bezel, case, case back, bracelet and clasp is also excellent. This results in a watch that is very pleasant to look at and to wear on the wrist.

A price worthy of the exception

What’s less pleasant is something that, oddly enough, doesn’t bother me. It’s the price. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in white gold has a price tag of $124,100. It’s such a big number, such an abstract number, that I almost have trouble evaluating it correctly.

Although the 16204BC is part of the regular collection and not technically a limited edition, the production numbers are incredibly low. In other words, the chances of you coming across one at your local AP dealer are slim. If you want one, and AP hasn’t called you yet, you might want to pick up the phone and see what’s possible.

So, is it worth the price? If I had an astronomical budget, I would be tempted to buy it. And I don’t even care that much about skeleton watches. It’s the size, shape and “gray matter” inside the case that cracks me up.