You have to hear him mention Nicolas Suteau, a Breton winemaker whose each vintage bears the name of characters from the round table. Listening to him allude to the white wine “Rêver” by Nadège Herbel, in the Loire region, “ideal for enhancing a bad day, it’s like a welcoming down jacket”. There are also Fanny Saber’s Burgundies which she likes to talk about, without reservation. “Transmitter, story teller, planter of small seeds”. It is in these pretty words that Nathalie Montain sums up her mission as a wine merchant.
Behind the verdigris facade of A l’AnqueVin, rue Cassini, in the port district of Nice, sits in the center of this cellar with a thousand treasures focused on small independent producers, a large wooden table. A sign that here, sharing is important, during the workshops, for example, where the wine merchant especially teaches the curious to “trust each other”.
A lawyer for twenty years, Nathalie Montain charted a new path for herself in 2016. After her 5-year-old child told her “Mom, you’re not funny, you’re gray”. OK. She questions herself and colors her life. Red, white, rosé. Bubbles to sparkle. “In reality, I always wanted to work around wine… Only, in my time, the hotel high school was a byway.”
Chosen with love
An intense apprenticeship with the sommelier creator of the eponymous program Frank Thomas training in Antibes, later, she held the position of sommelier at the Terre Blanche restaurants, in Tourrettes-en-Provence. In March 2020, ten days before confinement, she opened “A l’AnqueVin” (“à l’an qué ven” in Provençal, to wish a happy new year or good health). “It was the expression of my grandfather, who was from Néoules in the Var… and also the phrase that the winegrowers said to the grape pickers whose work they were satisfied with.”
This address sounds like a promise of quality wines, produced in an eco-responsible approach, at least organic and ethical.
“Everything here is chosen with love, for the product but also the approach and philosophy of the producers”, smiles the bubbly Nathalie. Affable – “for a bottle of wine, allow 30 to 40 minutes!” –the wine merchant defines herself as a merchant of conviction. “If I don’t like it, I don’t sell”slides the one which also offers delicatessen products, surprising gins (ginger, tonka, etc.), craft beers and teas.
Demystifying natural wines
She campaigns for a demystification of natural wine – even if the expression tickles the former legal expert who notes the lack of framework around these juices produced like the old ones, with grapes and that’s it.
“For around ten years, these wines have emerged, with their rock stars, a slightly elitist side and a certain idea of what natural wine should be. We need to bring flexibility and pleasure back into it.” This is why Nathalie Montain always questions her clients. A bottle, yes but with whom? And with what? “Because around the lasagna dish, you can have a red to have a good time with your lover, another red to mess around with friends and a final red to make a good impression on your in-laws.”
At L’AnqueWin. 10 rue Cassini in Nice. Call before, Nathalie making her deliveries, she may sometimes be absent: 07.69.54.11.90. Rens. www.cave-alanquevin-nice.fr. Bottles from 9 euros.
