It is no coincidence that Watches & Wonders closed its doors on a resolutely positive note. Time remains a sure value that has its share of aficionados, but also interests new generations. Its industry unites around cardinal values such as tradition, know-how, excellence and innovation. But let’s be honest, there have already been more surprising years. That said, if the 2024 vintage cleverly combines elegance, creativity and restraint, it proves that the great watchmaking Houses can still and always rely on solid foundations with collections that are revisited endlessly. Overall, we note a clear return to a certain classicism with beautiful instruments, with reasoned and reasonable diameters, without too many complications. The traditional three-hand watch has nothing to worry about. This policy has the advantage of being aimed at both ladies and gentlemen and the surge of “non-gendered” products does not spare watchmaking. Especially since most brands have developed a system of interchangeable bracelets that allows everyone to personalize their timepiece. However, a few exceptional pieces have caught our attention. The most affluent collectors have certainly found their happiness with very beautiful tourbillons and other great complications.
We particularly liked…
Be diamond, the high jewelry brand that makes Belgium shine
Chanel Atelier Couture Musical Clock
Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of Chanel’s Watchmaking Creation Studio, has imagined a “music box clock”. This unique and precious piece was developed by Reuge, a prestigious Swiss manufacturer. Under its glass dome, five busts and a multitude of details are staged and pay homage to Coco Chanel. We particularly note the miniature reproduction of the chandelier with tassels from the apartment on rue Cambon. The base paved with hundreds of pieces of onyx houses the clever mechanism allowing the busts to move to the tune of “My Woman” by Al Bowlly. A hit appreciated by the great Mademoiselle. Price: €2,600,000
Cartier’s Santos-Dumont Rewind
It took a touch of audacity to offer a watch whose hands turn backwards. No need to look for a goal for this seduction maneuver, it is purely artistic. And that is what is enchanting. That said, the piece has more than one asset to make us fall in love. Its elegant platinum case reveals a sublime carnelian dial with inverted Roman numerals that matches a semi-matte brown alligator strap. This is a limited edition of 200 numbered pieces. Price: €34,610
The L.UC. Quattro Spirit 25 by Chopard
Equipped with a hand-wound movement, LUC 98-06-L caliber with four barrels, this beautiful timepiece offers a power reserve of 192 hours, or 8 days. This is already a feat that deserves a closer look at the model limited to 100 pieces. But it is above all its refined aesthetic that catches the eye. Its case in ethical 18-carat white gold reveals a Grand Feu black enamel dial on which we can admire the jumping hours display. A complication that always has its little effect. Price: €53,900
Les Cabinotiers – The Berkley Grand Complication by Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin is the brand of all superlatives and to honour its reputation, the Manufacture presented this year the most complicated watch in the world. Composed of 63 horological complications and 2,877 components, it surpasses the record already held by the House with the reference 57260. It is distinguished by its true Chinese perpetual calendar. Given the particularities of this lunisolar calendar characterised by a complex and irregular cycle, the mechanical programming of the Manufacture calibre 3752 up to 2200 is a feat of watchmaking genius. Price: on request.
The Duke of Hermes’ Harnessed Arceau
With this timepiece, Hermès proves that its Manufacture does not shy away from any complication and that it is capable of offering them combined with a modern, even slightly futuristic design. Both understated and distinctive, the watch is equipped with a central three-axis tourbillon and a “tuning fork” minute repeater that beat in harmony to the rhythm of a high-frequency movement. Crisscrossing the hours, quarters and minutes, the horse-shaped hammers strike the branches of the long gong whose tones are reminiscent of cathedral chimes. Price: on request.
La Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton D’H. Moser & Cie
This is a watch that has probably charmed all lovers of skeletonized watches. It offers, in fact, an unrivaled visual experience and mechanics, while presenting a minimalist aesthetic and perfect symmetry. One of the most striking features is precisely its transparency. True to its philosophy, the Manufacture has removed all unnecessary materials, in particular to better highlight the one-minute flying tourbillon with a double hairspring that seems to float in zero gravity. Price: on request.
L’Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon de Piaget
In terms of finesse, the war between Piaget and Bulgari seems to have no limits. Indeed, Piaget is back on the top step of the podium in the category of the thinnest tourbillon in the world. This watch seems to have all the characteristics of an everyday watch, but it houses the beating heart of a flying tourbillon. A real feat! Price: on request
