CycloRetin, Clariant’s alternative to conventional retinol and bakuchiol, is an extract of Pseudostellaria heterophylla. Cultivated in China, this adaptogenic plant is used in traditional medicine. It is the only plant known to produce heterophyllin B, a peptide whose cyclic structure gives it increased bioactivity, stability and performance.
Activation of the retinoid pathway
According to Clariant, CycloRetin will work by increasing the level of retinol-converting enzymes and retinol receptor in cells, for better utilization of intracellular retinol.
“ By optimizing the use of intracellular retinol, CycloRetin does not trigger irritant reactions like externally applied retinol does. “, says Clariant.
Strengthening the skin structure and barrier function
Studies in vitro showed the ability of CycloRetin to boost the biological functions of fibroblasts and to reactivate the expression of genes responsible for the production of collagen and elastin.
Furthermore, CycloRetin also strengthens the structure of the epidermis by activating genes involved in skin barrier function and hydration.
A clinical study also showed that CycloRetin acts faster than retinol in reducing wrinkles.
Finally, two clinical studies were conducted to demonstrate the effectiveness of CycloRetin compared to a placebo and bakuchiol. The new active ingredient performed better than bakuchiol in sagging and had similar effects on skin firmness and brightness.
“ While exploring the benefits of cyclic peptides in our laboratory, we discovered the exceptional potential of Pseudostellaria heterophylla to restart the skin matrix production cycle. Very effective even at low concentrations, peptides play a crucial role in maintaining youthful skin », concludes Julie Droux, Global Technical Marketing Manager for Actives and Natural Origins at Clariant.
