Weekend in Dinard, under the sign of art

The late season has arrived. The beach of l’Écluse and its blue and white striped tents are almost abandoned. The Mölkky players have packed up their numbered wooden skittles. Yet summer is still here, dotted. The sun is lurking behind the clouds. At this time of year, we enjoy Dinard like a sweet chichi. In the open air. By taking advantage of the GR34 walk, 95% of which runs along the seafront, or by taking a dip in one of the two natural seawater pools – for those who are less sensitive to the cold.

Thanks to its shimmering seascapes, Dinard, like the entire Emerald Coast, has long maintained a close link with artists. In addition to the Painters’ Trail, Every year, a major temporary exhibition occupies the Palais des arts et du festival and the villa Les Roches Brunes. This season, “Elizabeth and Gérard Garouste. Art at La Source” brings together the couple’s work for the first time. Accomplices and complementary in life, the two artists have carved out their own paths since the beginning of their respective long careers. A designer, Elizabeth Garouste has enjoyed success since the 1980s in the creation of furniture and objects with baroque inspirations. Gérard Garouste, an internationally renowned painter – to whom the Centre Pompidou dedicated a retrospective in 2022 -, pursues a pictorial epic through myths and sacred texts, from the Bible to the Talmud. His bronzes, such as The Indian and the Bird’s Nest (2015), are just as eloquent.

A joyful cabinet of curiosities on the tip of La Malouine

At the villa Les Roches Brunes at the tip of La Malouine, facing the ramparts of Saint-Malo, where the presentation continues until October 6, the visitor is amazed by all of the Garouste’s works that respond to each other with fluidity and by this fabulous setting, a jewel of Belle Époque seaside architecture. Like a lookout on the coast, the villa, with its multiple openings onto the sea, offers breathtaking landscapes. We wander through the lounges, all in woodwork and sculpted fireplaces, discovering the pieces in painted wrought iron, the masks and ceramics of one – as well as many drawings very rarely shown before – and the paintings and sculptures of the other. As if the couple had always occupied this house.

From this joyful cabinet of curiosities, never saturated, where each work is in its place, emanates a very invigorating energy. As in this oil on canvas by Gérard Garouste, The Sarcophagus (2012), a nod to comics as a fervent Tintinophile. Throughout the exhibition, we also come across the work of the children of La Source Garouste-Hermine. Created ten years ago in Dinard, the association allows young people in difficulty to participate in artistic workshops. A desire for the Garouste to transmit the pleasure of creation.

“Elizabeth and Gérard Garouste. Art at La Source”. Until October 6 at the villa Les Roches Brunes, 1, allée des Douaniers, Dinard. Tel.: 02 99 16 30 65.

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Visits to Dinard

1. The Painters’ Path

From desk to desk in enamelled lava, arranged on the coast between Lancieux and La Richardais, passing through Saint-Briac-sur-Mer, Saint-Lunaire and Dinard, the 28 works of 19th century painters^e and 20^e centuries mark a route, to be done on foot or by bike, over a distance of approximately 20 km. Inspired by these seascapes, always in motion, some 17 “pleinairist” painters, including Léon Trémisot, Clarence Gagnon, Eugène Isabey, or Signac and Picasso, were able to capture the changing colors of the elements and the scenes of marine life. Another curiosity not to be missed: the Goule aux Fées. This Dinard cave, famous for having been the scene of experiments by the Lumière brothers, is marked by a plaque. This recalls that the first attempts at color photography were carried out in 1877 in these bowels near the beach of Saint-Énogat.

Tourist office, 2, boulevard Féart.

Where to sleep?

2. Hotel La Vallée

This small 3-star hotel with only 22 rooms concentrates all the charms of a somewhat secret refuge. Located a few steps from the center, it is hidden where the mills and fishermen’s houses once stood, on the side of a rock on the Vallée slipway. Depending on the orientation, the rooms with or without a balcony offer a breathtaking view of the bay or the very peaceful jetty. Even if the volume of the rooms seems small, the comfort and the decoration all in emerald green and golden yellow make the welcome pleasant and warm (double room from €155, breakfast €15). The real surprise of La Vallée? Its restaurant “feet in the water” of seafood, whose menu is supervised by the great starred chef Christian Le Squer, who offers dishes and starters to share. You absolutely must try the sea bream ceviche with yuzu juice, a melting delight, or the lobster ravioli with lemon butter. Menu at €39; expect to pay around €50 and more a la carte, all the same.

Hotel de la Vallée. 6, avenue George-V. Tel.: 02 99 46 94.

3. Beach huts

Original, the concept of “tiny houses” continues to arouse curiosity. At the Port Blanc campsite, on the road to Saint-Lunaire, in addition to mobile homes and traditional pitches, mini-cabins have appeared on the edge of the beach. Coloured yellow or striped in blue and white “à la Buren”, these 7 m2 dwellings² are completely ergonomic. A 180 x 200 sofa bed, a mezzanine bed for children and a functional kitchen area (shared showers and toilets outside) are enough for those who prefer nature holidays with their feet in the sand. In total, the two partners, Coralie and Arnaud, offer six cabins (€65 to €85 per night), including four set back on the promontory, very close to the Dôme, the bar-restaurant where you can sit to admire the sunset and listen to live concerts from time to time.

Port Blanc Campsite. Rue du Sergent-Boulanger, Port Blanc beach. Tel.: 02 99 46 10 74.

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At the table!

4. The Little Blue

Not far from the market square, Le Petit Bleu stands out for its innovative cuisine of fresh produce. Enzo Polini, the chef (ex-L’Enveloppe, rue Richer in Paris), and his partner, Sélène Fourcade, in the dining room, welcome their customers in a bistro spirit with a predominantly cobalt blue decor. On the terrace, in the dining room or on the patio, you can enjoy a refreshing starter of radish cannelloni with trout, fresh cheese and dill (€14). Then a whiting cooked at low temperature (perfect) on a fennel confit and star anise beurre blanc, a little saturated in taste (€25). The best part: open Saturday lunch and dinner.

The Little Blue. 31, rue de la Vallée. Tel.: 02 99 46 14 81.

5. Cartagena

Literally with your feet in the sand, as unique as a beach shack, Le Carthagène is the little secret address that you should not miss. You go down there along the very poetic Clair-de-Lune promenade to the seawater swimming pool. The simplicity of the place (wooden tables and benches) and a fresh seafood menu are the keys to this friendly spot very popular with the people of Dinard. To try at lunchtime, the marinated red tuna ceviche with red cabbage salad and watercress, all enhanced by a kalamsi sauce (lime and mango vinegar), full of flavors (€22), or the Cartha accras (€12), the specialty of the place. At aperitif time, the idea of ​​having a royal spritz (€11), seated on a deckchair overlooking the bay of Saint-Malo, is one of the simple pleasures. Open for lunch and dinner, depending on the weather. It is best to book.

Quai du Prieuré. Tel.: 02 23 17 26 91.

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Experience

6. Creative workshop

Véronique Brossette has traveled to conflict zones around the world in a humanitarian context. From her travels, she has stored up strong emotions that she transcribes through expressive artistic creations, boards made mainly from recycled materials. Today, she shares this practice through “Creative Escapades” in her workshop. Sessions for 3 to 4 people begin with breathing exercises. Then, we cut and tear pieces of art magazines. Then, we manipulate the clay and the plaster strips that we stick on an A4 format. On this base, we add dried algae, shells, golden chocolate candy papillotes, melted wax, pieces of rope or net, to create our own composition. A herbal tea closes the 2-hour session (€40). The materials are provided and we leave with our work. By appointment.

Escapades. 33, rue de la Malouine. Tel.: 06 80 58 51 07.

7. Treatment at the Emeria spa

This large hotel complex on the beach near Saint-Énogat, both welcoming and refined, recently renovated, very bright, all in sand tones, offers a protocol of thalassotherapy and high-end treatments also open to non-resident customers (25-minute radiance facial treatment, €75). To complete the offer, two restaurants and a bar to enjoy light seasonal cuisine and the various terraces on the sea.

Emeria. 1, avenue du Château-Hebert. Tel.: 02 99 16 78 10.

Excursions

8. By boat

There is nothing like a boat trip to appreciate the lace-like coasts of the Bay of Saint-Malo, its history and its maritime forts (including Fort Harbour, the work of Vauban, where Alain Delon apparently almost lived!). It is also an opportunity to admire the most beautiful villas on the Pointe de la Malouine, and in particular that of François Pinault (the most Art Deco). The businessman and seasoned collector is said to be renovating a villa to turn it into a museum. The guided tour, provided by the Compagnie Corsaire, lasts 1 hour 30 minutes. Departure at 2 p.m. or 4:25 p.m. from Dinard. Price: adult, €24.80; child (3-15 years), €14.90.

Boat excursions. Departure from the pier, Clair-de-Lune promenade.

To report

9. Salted Butter Caramels

La Craquanterie, a Breton biscuit factory, defends local production by offering Dragon Rouge chouchenns, a sweet drink made from water and slightly alcoholic honey (from €11.90 per bottle) and the famous salted butter caramels (200 g bag, €5.50).

La Craquanterie. 10, rue Yves-Verney. Tel.: 09 67 67 35 80.

Delicacies

10. Spice ice cream

Vent de Vanille is the place to go to enjoy Roellinger spiced ice creams. As well as sorbets churned with seasonal fruits and millefeuilles made before your eyes, in this beautiful laboratory-boutique. The vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom and rare peppers from faraway lands are the stuff of dreams. The pot/cone 1 scoop, €4.

Roellinger. 3 bis, boulevard du Président-Wilson. Tel.: 02 99 89 61 03.

The tip of Moulinet borders the beach of Écluse to the east, the most famous in Dinard.