If we had to retain only one image, only one sequence, from this unprecedented papal visitthis would undoubtedly be the masses au Casone. The Place d'Austerlitz, at the foot of the statue of the most illustrious of Ajaccians, was the most appropriate place in the city to gather a crowd which, without a doubt, would be immense. From mid-morning, while the Pope Francis had barely settled into his popemobile, in Saint-Joseph, an enthusiastic crowd was already striding along the Cours Napoléon, then the Cours Grandval, in the direction of Casone.
“Oh, how are you? Did you sleep where you came up this morning?” Recurring questions which punctuate the reunions between thousands of Corsicans, converging towards the same point of interest.
Groups of men with dawn in the bag
Among the numerous pilgrims, in a town crisscrossed by barriers guarded by the police, groups of men of all ages were easily distinguishable. More rarely, groups of women, or even mixed entities, wore the same bag, bearing the image of their brotherhood respective.
“Confraterna Sant'Anton Abbot of Speloncatu”, a colleague identifies himself, visibly proud to represent his village. Thus, representatives of almost all of the brotherhoods on the island, coming from the towns or the deepest rural areas, from Balagne, from Castagniccia, from Niolu, presented themselves at the checkpoints, approximately 200 meters from the gates of the Place d'Austerlitz. Because, to access the most popular site of this papal visit, you had to show your credentials. The chance of a draw, or the opportunity for a function linked to volunteering, first aid or the press. “Accreditation and ID card, please”, asks a police officer. “Sir, open your bag”, demands another. Common sense dictated that authorized people should present themselves well in advance of the schedule communicated for the papal mass. Even if it means spending hours on your feet, wandering between shade and sun.
A papal village at the top of Grandval
Past security, at the very top of Grandval, a village of marquees brought together some great entertainment. As midday approached, it was of course possible to eat, with banquets giving pride of place to regional dishes.
In front of figatellu sandwiches and veal with olives, the official shop of the bishopric was stormed. “What are you selling in the bag? There are no rosaries?” asks a forty-year-old. “These are t-shirts from the Pope's visit, available in three sizesreplied a volunteer. It's €30, for the benefit of the bishopric. What do I give you?” The stands of charitable associations, such as Inseme, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary, occupied the rest of this papal village, in a joyful and relaxed atmosphere.
Nustral atmosphere
Under a radiant sun, the Place d'Austerlitz filled up visibly, with the impatience and enthusiasm of a multi-generational crowd. On a small island of barely 350,000 inhabitants, it is not surprising that so many Corsicans greet each other, ask for news of loved ones, in a friendly atmosphere. And nustra ! If we had to compare the Casone sequence to other popular events on the island, it could be Santa di Niolu, or even a football match on a busy evening. The Corsican language is omnipresent, as if religiosity were more authentic that way.
“Are you sure he’s going to come? Pinch me, I can’t believe it,” asks a young woman, captivated by the images of the visit on her smartphone.
