Translated by
Cecile Herrero
Published on
January 22, 2025
One of the main reasons to come to Paris Fashion Week is to discover independent brands that imagine resolutely original clothing and make no compromise on their vision. The three labels and fashion shows that best expressed this dynamism are 3. Paradis, Auralee and Egonlab.
3. Paradise: Winter clothes for rock stars
The latest collection from 3. Paradis, staged on a podium of fake snow, with the soundtrack of the wind blowing, shows how much winter helps to calm us down.
Like the background noises, all the furs are artificial and coated in wax and silicone, giving the models a wet look, as if they had narrowly escaped a snowstorm in Quebec, where the fur originated. 3. Paradise.
Coats, sweaters, sweatshirts and giant imperial capes are used to create a funky and very cool atmosphere.
Another stylistic trick was the use of video cassette cases as men's bags. On their covers, posters of Bruce Lee films, like those that founder and creative director Emeric Tchatchoua watched in Montreal during their childhood. Bruce even appeared on a superb surgeon's shirt, although made from faux Yeti fur.
Emeric likes to cut a large pair of jeans, to better show five waist belts, from the stomach almost to the knee. Noble workwear, like a postman's jacket studded with crystals, – a series of puffy jackets made from faux pillows, just like the invitation to this show
“I wanted to give the impression that snow creates a moment of calm. Away from the phone. And that pillows provide comfort, like fashion,” explained the imposing-looking designer.
One of the most charming fashion designers, Emeric Tchatchoua, is also one of the most innovative.
Egonlab: An impeccable cut, a sexy atmosphere
Egonlab is one of the brands that addresses social and political issues. Its extreme yet skillful cuts, unexpected fabrics and sexy aesthetic felt like a moment of fashion liberation on a miserably humid Wednesday in Paris.
The look is sexy, arty and strong, and expresses the desire to never be afraid to be different. The designer duo Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix cut very tastefully – like a remarkable pair of pants that extended on one side into a wide, two-meter-long scarf that wrapped and draped around the body.
They sent out the most imposing coats, wrapped high in the neck, that are both subversive and sophisticated. Add to that tunics with mega eyelets and endless leather laces, brilliantly cut loon pants, over-long jeans with ankle straps, and rock legend Yeti faux fur coats, and this collection began party as it should be.
“We thought about the importance of respecting minorities and people who are different from the rest of the population,” said Florentin Glémarec. And Kevin Nompeix added: “Our clothes can look wet or like something is moving. It's a bit like in today's world where the most extreme politicians are trying to create divisions.”
Staged in semi-darkness inside the Institut du Monde Arabe, with pouring rain outside and traffic resembling a scene from “Bladerunner,” this Egonlab parade was a powerful statement stylistic and social.
Auralee: From Seoul to the Seine
It would have been easy to believe that this collection was designed by a Frenchman, as it exudes Gallic cool and the nonchalance of Saint-Germain.
Instead, Auralee is designed by Korean-born Ryota Iwai, believed to have been born in the Swamp in another life. The neighborhood where one could happily wear their opening look – a stylish gabardine overcoat and matching trousers worn with a Perfecto style leather jacket. Or the perfect dusty pink suede sweatshirt/puffer or an oversized David Byrne cardigan worn with oversized Japanese jeans.
In this mixed show, he also presented cocoon coats that begged to be worn by Simone de Beauvoir, or high biker jackets and masculine headbands ideal for Juliette Greco.
Presented in a sober white space opposite the Printemps department store, this show was an expression of Seoul at the Seine.
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