Symbol of elegance par excellenceCoco Chanel's favorite jewel, the pearl fascinates as well as it dazzlescrossing eras and cultures to establish itself as a timeless icon of refinement and purity. Since November 21 and untilas of June 1, 2025it is at the center of the new exhibition of L’École des Arts Joailliers – Paris, pearl capital – which celebrates the unique relationship between the French capital and this precious gem. Through an exceptional selection of rare jewelry and archivesdelve into the fascinating history of pearls and discover how Paris established itself as a nerve center of commerce and creation around this gem.
A journey between science, history and jewelry
Did you know that all shells can produce pearlsbut that their quality depends on the species and the living conditions of the latter? The exhibition begins with an exploration of the origins of the pearl, shattering well-established myths: no, a grain of sand is not necessary for a pearl to form.
© René Boivin. Mask lapel clip, circa 1910 – 1915. Fine pearls, gold. The Parisian Gallery
Although we imagine them often white and roundthe first windows of the exhibition show us that pearls are in reality available in an incredible diversity of sizes, shapes and colors : pink, golden or gray, elongated or baroque, some even reach several centimeters in diameter. Facing the entrance, a pool of pearls invites visitors to touch and manipulate these natural treasures to better understand them. An introduction that is both scientific and sensory which opens the way to a captivating journey through the history and crafts of pearlingbetween refinement and Parisian know-how.
Paris and the golden age of pearls
And pearls are also prizedthis is partly because of their rarity: on average, one in a hundred shells forms a pearland that among them, only one in a million reaches exceptional jewelry quality. This extreme rarity, combined with their unique luster, has made pearls a symbol of luxury and elegance from the end of the 19th century.
From the late 1860s to the late 1930s, a majority of the pearls fished in the Arabian Gulf were gradually transported to France, sold in Paris and assembled by the most prestigious jewelers on Place Vendôme. Paris then becomes a hub of the pearl trade thanks to influential figures like the Rosenthal family or Jacques Cartierwho travel the roads of the Gulf to select the most beautiful gems.
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Exhibition Paris, capital of the Pearl © Photo Dylan Dubois
The exhibition does not just celebrate nearly a century of shared historyit also shows how the pearl, whether fine or cultured, inspired Parisian jewelers and artists from all walks of life. Through nearly 100 pieces of jewelry and around fifty drawings and precious iconographic documents, from around twenty of the most prestigious lenders, Paris, pearl capital invites us to delve into a time when pearls dominated Parisian fashion, being worn in necklaces, brooches or corsage ornaments. We discover exceptional pieces there, such as a six-row imperial necklace signed Van Cleef & Arpels or Art Nouveau creations fromHenry Weaverwhere baroque pearls with singular shapes transform into delicate petals.
A unique immersion in the world of pearls until today
After exploring the Belle Époque, the Art Nouveau and Art Deco movementsthe exhibition ends with contemporary creations, such as Fredy's – children's brooches in the shape of a man with pearl heads – released in the 1990s, showing that the love story between Paris and the pearl continues today.
Free and open until June 1, 2025, this exhibition will appeal not only to jewelry enthusiasts, but also to curious people who wish to discover all the history and know-how behind the pearl. Remember to book!
Paris, pearl capital
The School of Jewelry Arts (Paris – Hôtel de Mercy-Argenteau)
16 bis, boulevard Montmartre – 9e
From November 21, 2024 to June 1, 2025
Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. except public holidays
Late night on Thursday until 9 p.m.
Free entry upon reservation
More info and reservations
