Strasbourg: the triumph of the Petit Beef Bar | Gilles Pudlowski's blog

Importer of high quality meats (Black Angus or Wagyu), born in Monaco, present in 24 countries, with around forty addresses with his “beef bars”, Riccardo Giraudi has taken over and renovated the old “Pont des Vosges”, brasserie institution of the imperial district of Strasbourg, of which he kept the brand, associated here with the Alsatian investor Franck Rhiem. The latter, who successfully created the Flam's chain, was born in Colmar into a family of hoteliers-restaurateurs. His father, Richard, was both deputy mayor in charge of tourism and boss of the Bristol with its starred restaurant, the Rendez-Vous de Chasse opposite the station. His uncle Jean-Noël managed the late and luxurious Grand Hôtel des Trois Epis, while his aunt and cousin were the owners of the Grand Hôtel opposite Strasbourg station, very close to the former Gruber hotel, which also belonged to the family. Suffice it to say that Franck Rhiem, who developed his “Flam's” with fourteen establishments, knows his subject and returns, to the Alsatian capital where he started his business in 1990, through the front door.

The fact remains that it is Riccardo Giraudi who carries the torch of the place with a very careful setting by the English design office Neville + Neville which signs a chic and glamorous decor without ostentation, with its counter, its beautiful entrance. And as in its Parisian brand on Avenue Franklin Roosevelt, we find in seduction all the qualities of its houses: very neat setting, mixing modern and old with art, benches, black and white tiles on the floor and Thonet chairs. The “top” products, the exceptional meats, the luxury street food type hors d’oeuvres to share with the Alsatian note of a so-called “beefy” tarte flambée with its extra-thin pastry, its beef bacon ( but be careful to serve it hot!).

Shrimp Won Ton © GP

We add the skill in the kitchen of the chef of Turkish origin Ugur Ekren, whom we met in Paris and who watches over everything with confidence. Green beans and almonds, won ton-style fried shrimp ravioli with yuzu and wasabi sauce, lemon sole cut at the table (and veal liver in the same register of memories for those who frequented the Pont des Vosges and want to rediscover their favorite dishes) , but also “Milanese” in all its forms, plus exceptional artichokes cooked at low temperature whose leaves and hearts are eaten right on the spot. And we put on a pedestal this beef fillet with pepper sauce to roll on the floor (the same as that of the Beef Bar in 8th which made us cry with emotion) with its homemade fries.

Beef fillet with pepper sauce © GP

We add that the female service, under the aegis of Carine Jung, who we once knew as a boss of character at the Cruche d'Or before finding her at the Place on rue de Zurich, is at the same time smiling, prompt and efficient, that the wine list does not lack resources on the Burgundy, Bordeaux side (like the exquisite Aurage, Castlllon Côtes de Bordeaux, from the Mitjavile family in 2018, Vallée du Rhône, and of course Alsace (with the Pinot Noirs from Lorentz in Bergheim and Trimbach in Ribeauvillé and the desserts (lost kougelhopf or fleur de lait ice cream with its toppings to share) are calls for indulgence. In short, there you go a beautiful table, expensive indeed, but which does not hide its game and makes the whole Strasbourg run. We understand why…

Milk flower ice cream and its toppings © GP