Evelyne Pujol, shepherdess of azure – Le Temps

Published on December 20, 2024 at 1:41 p.m. / Modified on December 20, 2024 at 1:42 p.m.

4 mins. reading

His service is over. But when we arrive, Evelyne Pujol continues to be busy in the shed set up on the terrace of the Royal Savoy in Lausanne. With her seasoned hands, she shapes a roll of butter studded with seeds and bread crumbs. We wonder: is this a new seafood accompaniment? “No, it’s for the birds! I collect the leftovers. With this good fat, they will get through the winter better,” the fifty-year-old retorts in her lilting Occitanie accent, before telling us about the fox who sometimes comes to visit her at nightfall.

For the second consecutive season, she is on the bench at the palace on avenue d’Ouchy until March. The aroma of a court-bouillon in which she cooks whelks mixes with the smell of iodine and algae typical of shellfish and crustaceans. In its counter covered with crushed ice, different varieties of oysters (Gillardeau, fine de claire, Belon flat oyster) sit alongside blue lobsters, crabs and pink shrimp from Madagascar. So many textures and colors that Evelyne approaches like an artist’s palette. “To compose my seafood platters, I play with seaweed, the pink or gray tones of seafood, but also the yellows, orange or pink of mayonnaises, cocktails or shallot compotes, with the idea to make paintings,” she explains.

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