“We must not miss the quality of the product and the volume. » For Henry Schaller, oyster farmer in the Marennes-Oléron basin, December marks a peak in activity and… pressure. Its monthly production, which usually fluctuates between 18 and 25 tonnes, is multiplied by four and peaks at 100 tonnes of oysters. A regular at the Niort market halls, where he is present every Saturday, the oyster farmer also supplies wholesalers, fishmongers and restaurateurs in France, in neighboring European countries but also in Asia (70% of his activity relates to all these indirect sales) .
“We have currently almost finished sorting and calibrating the products, which have been matured for twenty-eight days. From mid-December, ten additional people will join the team to ensure packaging »describes the professional, who achieves more than 30% of his turnover in December.
Oysters are a flagship product on holiday tables and the period is crucial for professionals. Some can make up to 75% of their turnover between December 15 and 31. In certain oyster farming establishments, staff increased fivefold over this period.
Purchasing power is today the main obstacle in this context of latent economic crisis. Price is the first criterion for purchasing seafood products
Philippe Morandeau
Last year, the season was complicated and the six hundred and seventy oyster farmers in Charente-Maritime were the indirect victims of norovirus contamination of oysters from the Arcachon basin and Normandy, this bacteria responsible for gastroenteritis that found in wastewater. Because if only these two oyster growing regions were subject to a marketing ban at the end of 2023, consumers shunned the product, even though oysters from Charente-Maritime were not affected. Sudden drop in sales of 30 to 40% which lasted for several months, loss of turnover, unsold stocks, etc.: the profession suffered. “Some will sell their oysters for less than they cost them to produce”deplores Laurent Chiron, president of the Marennes-Oléron oyster quality group.
However, professionals are today calm about the possible risks of contamination. Decontamination techniques and protocols are proven. And the specifications of the IGP (protected geographical indication) Marennes-Oléron further reinforce this, argues the president of the defense organization: “The refining of oysters in clear gives them their organoleptic signature. It is a natural hydraulic basin which improves the taste but also the health quality. »
Good start to the season
If norovirus contamination is now officially “ancient history”the profession hopes that consumers will be there. With 100,000 tonnes tasted per year, the French are the leading oyster lovers in Europe. “Purchasing power is today the main obstacle in this context of latent economic crisis. Price is the first criterion for purchasing seafood products »underlines Philippe Morandeau, president of the Charente-Maritime Regional Shellfish Committee.
“In direct sales, with the relationship of trust between producers and consumers who know each other, the weekends are not all the same but there has been a good start to the season since mid-September, particularly in the big citiesbelieves Philippe Morandeau. It is more difficult for professionals who only do production in a market of supply and demand which is not in equilibrium and where everyone thinks about their margin. » In December, mass distribution represents 70% of the market, 40% the rest of the year.
“The downside today is that we don't know how to evaluate volumes and pre-orders, which arrive later and later. According to our initial trends, we see a drop of 5 to 10% in the share of GMS (large and medium-sized areas),” specifies Laurent Chiron. But the professional wants to be optimistic. “Christmas in the middle of the week is always a good setup, because we also work well the previous weekend and the following. If the weather holds, we will have a standard season. » And oysters on the plates.
