This new Var restaurant serves seafood and even offers fish charcuterie

This new Var restaurant serves seafood and even offers fish charcuterie
This new Var restaurant serves seafood and even offers fish charcuterie

Swordfish, matured lean or fish chorizo… the curiosity already begins there. Cyril Aveline, who has fed great restaurants from Paris to Miami and Sakina Salhi, sommelier are embarking on this second adventure, in place of Hestia, which already put meat lovers on hot coals. Let the latter rest assured, it is ten meters further, in a new cozy decor, with more cutlery, that the latter has moved, with Cyril.

Umami as the Holy Grail

A female team brings Ino’s menu to life, which gives pride of place to raw fish. White tuna, bonito, scorpionfish, amberjack, leerfish… are on the menu, depending on the local catch. The recipes are off the beaten track, from the sardine tempura with squid ink and yoghurt sauce, melting as you want, to the mussels au gratin and sobrasada, which remind us of something… paella!

Surprising flavors every time, with regional products as an accompaniment, such as citron, one of the chef’s signature citrus fruits, who likes to work on bitterness. The wines offered can be explosive, such as this Spanish Sicus that grew in underground vats.

The fish is worked in a “Isakaya, these bars in Kyoto where the chef sends the dishes as they come”explains Cyril. The chef tells us that he aims for umami, the fifth flavor after sweet, salty, sour, bitter, “that of fullness”. Nothing less.

Learn more

Ino, quai d’honneur in Bormes, tapas or plates between 9 and 25 euros, approximately, wine cellar, (delicatessen by mid-July) to take away as well. Tasting room, “Bormes to be wine”, on July 7 from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. at Hestia and Ino, with 35 winemakers represented, 10 euros for the tasting and a free glass.

Clean. 07.82.19.69.28.

The recipe for real panisses/crab and curry mayonnaise

INGREDIENTS FOR 6 PEOPLE

250 g crab meat or crab, 250 g mayonnaise (preferably homemade), 1 teaspoon madras curry, 1l water, 300 g chickpea flour, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 pinch coarse salt.

THE PROGRESS

Bring the water to the boil with the olive oil and salt in it. In the boiling water, add the chickpea flour, then mix vigorously. Put on low heat and cook the mixture for 10 minutes, stirring with a whisk very regularly. If there are lumps, do not hesitate to mix your preparation with a hand blender. Place the panisse mixture in a dish such as a gratin dish, spread it evenly and leave to cool for 6 hours in the fridge.
Mix your mayonnaise with the curry and crab meat. Cut the panisses to your liking and fry them in oil (preferably olive oil) at 180°, until they are nicely golden.
Dress the plate by placing the crab mayonnaise on the base, then the panisses on top.
For the summer, accompany with the Le rosé des copains vintage from the Domaine de Garbelle, in Garéoult.

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