The prestigious label Of “Most beautiful villages in France” sometimes allows you to discover real treasures. In the Drôme department, no less than 6 villages can proudly claim it: Châtillon-en-Diois, le Poët-Laval, La Garde-Adhémar, Mirmande, Montbrun-les-Bains and Grignan.
Inseparable from its castle, marked by the visit of Madame de Sévigné, the town presents itself as “a true concentrate of the art of living”. Nestled in the heart of the village, Le Clair de la Plume embodies this to perfection: charming hotel, starred restaurant, all the conditions are there to enjoy an unforgettable stay.
A stone’s throw from the bustle of Avignon and its Palais des Papes, the Priory of Villeneuve-les-Avignon is a haven of peace. Built in 1332, it now houses Le Prieuré-Baumanière, a rural hotel…Read more
Grignan, a (very) beautiful village marked by the Marquise de Sévigné
The Drôme Provençale is a region to know. For its many perched villages, its lavender fields (in flower around mid-June) and… some hidden gems. By meeting all these criteria, Grignan has all the makings of the ideal destination, for a long weekend or a timeless stay.
In addition to the label mentioned in the introduction to this article, the village is in the running (with 13 other French municipalities) to be designated “French favorite village” as part of Stéphane Bern’s show on France 3, in 2024. In terms of of communication and image, Grignan therefore has more than one asset up its sleeve to seduce visitors. And it’s true that as it approaches, the charm works very quickly: at the top of its rocky peak, the castle is “the largest Renaissance building in the south-east of France”. Its silhouette stands out with Mont Ventoux in the background and lavender fields all around to enhance the postcard.
The construction of the castle is said to have begun in the 12th century, before being transformed into a fortress by the Adhémar family. From the 15th century, the building evolved into a Renaissance palace, but it is especially the passage of Madame de Sévigné which contributes today to the popularity of the place. The illustrious Marquise stayed there in the 17th century and it was in these places that she wrote the letters to her daughter which made her famous.
Today, the name Sévigné is omnipresent in the streets of Grignan, with many businesses having adopted this surname. But it is another name that we find in various places, just as poetic, which is also worth a detour: the Clair de la Plume.
Le Clair de la Plume, a delightful charming hotel…
In Grignan, no less than 6 addresses bear the name Clair de la Plume: in the heart of the medieval village, a gourmet shop allows you to stock up on local products (nougat, lavender biscuits, Grignan-les appellation wines). -Adhémar…); not far from there, it is a traditional bar which is located in the old salt granary and if you move further out, a 17th century building offers an exceptional view of the castle. Recently transformed into a hotel, Ferme Chapouton has 13 rooms, a natural swimming pool, a Mediterranean garden and a Bistro (bib gourmand).
But the “historic” address of Clair de la Plume is located on Place du Mail: the 9 rooms of the hotel adjoin the 6 rooms and suites of the private house. In particular the Virgile suite, which will be ours for one night. Not the most accessible, certainly, but the interior is well worth the effort.
A long corridor leads to a small living room, then a bathroom equipped with a whirlpool bathtub and finally the bedroom itself. In total, 40m² in this attic area, with an “old-fashioned” decoration full of charm. The dark red walls surrounding the bed contribute to the warm atmosphere of the place, while enjoying the view of the wisteria and the mall wash house. Desks, sofas, armchairs (not forgetting the large 180×200 bed): everything is done to make you feel good in the room. And what about the bottle of lavender bath salt that awaits us at the edge of the bathtub to enjoy a spa session?
With your body relaxed and your appetite open, it is impossible to resist the call of the restaurant located in the main building, probably located on the site of a former Canons’ residence.
…and a starred restaurant as surprising as it is attractive
If Clair de la Plume highlights the involvement of Glenn Viel in co-signing the menu of the gourmet restaurant, it is with chef Benjamin Reilhes and pastry chef Cédric Perret that we have the chance to discuss before sitting down to eat.
Aged only 30, the former notably cut his teeth at the Pressoir d’Argent Gordon Ramsay in Bordeaux and at the Table du Lausanne Palace, as sous-chef to Franck Pelux. And if he only joined Clair de la Plume in December 2022, his relationship with Cédric Perret seems so natural that they could pass for childhood friends. Excellence is not synonymous with austerity and the two men prove it: “We want to show that we can do serious work without taking ourselves seriously. »
This is true even in the title of the dishes, with a “celery not really remoulade” and a “Paris is magic” made from mushroomsOf course (“That was Glenn’s idea, I wouldn’t have dared!” »). But this lightness in the names is accompanied by a real sophistication and subtlety on the plate. A fair balance that we appreciate from the first course, the carrot crackers, with a very playful approach.
To follow, the Lobster wings demonstrate real audacity, mixing crispy chicken and cooked-raw lobster, all served with vinegared rice. As for the matured beef sirloin accompanied by its potato mousseline, it demonstrates that simplicity is sometimes the main quality of a dish. And if Benjamin Reilhes concedes that the visual aspect is not an obsession for him, the result on the plate is impeccable.
Just before dessert, Cédric Perret transforms into “Perrette” with his milk pot and brilliantly reinvents the traditional cheese platter (we won’t say more!). Lemon, milky and herbaceous, then the “volcanic island”, with its succulent creamy smoked and caramelized Sao Tome chocolate, bring the final touch to this gourmet dinner that is perfect in every way. We almost come to forget the delicate food and wine pairings, which highlight local appellations and allow you to think (a little) off the beaten track.
Under the glass roof of Clair de la Plume as well as in the Virgile suite, time seems to pass slowly, peacefully. We would like to extend our stay at the foot of the castle for a few more days. But it is also this rarity that makes the experience so unforgettable. And if Grignan is one of the most beautiful villages in France, the table at Clair de la Plume also deserves to be among the best restaurants in France.
-
-
