in the footsteps of the Templars and Hospitallers between Corrèze and Dordogne

Nearly seven centuries after their arrest and mass execution by Philip the Fair, the Templars continue to fuel many legends, inspire writers and motivate treasure seekers. What if the real treasure was none other than the remarkable heritage they left behind? Based on this observation, trained architect Marc-Olivier Agnès created a network of around twenty sites in the Vézère valley, with the help of elected officials and tourist offices. A wealth of which many municipalities were not aware: certain parish churches or private properties turn out to be the remains of former Templar or hospital commanderies.

Big cash farms

The Poor Knights of Christ and of the Temple of Solomon, better known as the Templars, and the Hospitallers of Saint John of Jerusalem are two military religious orders which emerged in parallel in the 12th century. The first to protect pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem, the second to receive and care for them. “The bravery and probity of these monk-soldiers are at the origin of the myth of the knight who defends the widow and the orphan, anchored in the collective unconscious,” our guide deciphers.

To finance their activities in the new Latin States of the East, they collected donations in Europe and locally from the lords of Comborn, Turenne, Ventadour or Hautefort, in order to establish a network of commanderies. These large commercial farms include churches and cemeteries, reflecting the privileges obtained from the popes, on whom they depend directly, but also barns, stables, outbuildings, dovecotes, wells, cellars and the commander’s dwelling. So many buildings – there would have been 20,000 in France – of which only fragments remain.

They tell the turbulent history of these pious knights: after the dissolution of the Order of the Temple in 1312, their property returned to the Hospitallers until the French Revolution, where they were sold and transformed. Unlike that of the Templars, the order of the Hospitallers has survived, in a charitable form bearing the name of the Order of Malta.

At the origin of today’s towns

The journey through time begins in Haute Corrèze, at the Source of the Vézère. In Courteix, we are greeted by a contemporary sculpture by Champenois Hugues de Payens, founder and first master of the Order of the Temple. From this Templar commandery attached to Bellechassagne, one of the three main ones in Corrèze, remain a barn and the commander’s dwelling, which have become residential houses in the village, as well as the Saint-Pierre-ès-Liens church, dated from 1282.

Sculpted faces adorn the main entrance. Inside, 15th century frescoes reveal religious and symbolic motifs, and on the ground, heavy tombstones with knightly attributes are inlaid. You should know that, among the symbols commonly found, the cross pattée generally identifies the order of the Temple, even if it is not the only one to use it, and the eight-pointed cross, the order of the Hospitallers.

From the 14th century, Fournol, a hamlet of Saint-Merd-les-Oussines, was a dependency of the priory of Sudue-Lavinadière of the canons of the Holy Sepulchre, which the Hospitallers of Saint-Jean of Jerusalem would inherit. This church, preceded by a large Hosannière stone cross, typical of the plateau, displays enigmatic marks on its interior walls which have not yet been deciphered.

In Chavanac, a village of 46 souls, the southern entrance to the church is marked by a hand on an unpublished Greek cross, “probably a reuse keystone”, which would evoke the power of forest tithe (tax). Inside, a sculpture, visibly ancient, has not revealed all its secrets.

The church, restored in 2000, is the only one in France to have a thatched roof.

In Lestards, the Hospitallers recovered a commandery established by Antonines, when this religious order died out in the 17th century. The church, restored in 2000, is the only one in France to have a thatched roof, and its exceptional acoustics attract singers from everywhere. At Sudue-Lavinadière, ruins unearthed in 1995, following a chance discovery, allow us to see the structure of a commandery. There we found everyday objects testifying to the daily life of the monks as well as a crossbow, the reconstruction of which proved that it worked.

Some of these buildings have private owners, and Marc-Olivier Agnès has achieved the feat of having the doors opened. This is particularly the case of the commandery of Mons, located on a promontory overlooking the Vézère in Varetz, in the Brive-la-Gaillarde basin. “You enter the commandery like a knight in the old days,” he announces to the fifteen or so visitors present, as they pass through the porch topped with a dovecote.

Coats of arms and Maltese crosses

Founded by the Templars in the 12th century, falling into the hands of the Hospitallers, the beautiful ensemble, of which only half remains, is representative of the developments in buildings between the 15th and 17th centuries. A square tower contains a spiral staircase, and the commander’s bedroom, whose home has been gentrified, has mullioned windows decorated with coats of arms and Maltese crosses as well as a large fireplace.

In Condat-sur-Vézère, about fifteen minutes from Terrasson, on the banks of Coly, the buildings in arrears were bought by the municipality. They will be rehabilitated and converted into a multi-purpose room, museum, workshops for craftsmen, with a garden in the medieval spirit, thanks to a work campaign planned over five years, the objective of which is to revitalize the village. The dimensions of the church, which served as a refuge in the event of an attack, reflect the importance of this hospital commandery.

In La Cassagne, at a place called Le Temple, in reference to the order, Olivier Choppin de Janvry, a retired architect, made this monumental tithe barn of 200 square meters his home. The lower stone room, with pointed vaults, has retained a corner fireplace, used as a forge. He is one of those enthusiasts who have made it possible to preserve and above all to make known this disjointed heritage. While giving historical reality to the legends which, since the 19th century, have surrounded the Templar order, which ultimately only existed for two hundred years.

ADDRESS BOOK

Find out more: brive-tourisme.com. Such. 05 55 24 08 80.

HAVE TO DO

The sites can be discovered independently thanks to display panels and podcasts or during guided tours by Marc-Olivier Agnès, at the origin of this route which combines history, anecdotes and legends. Contact the tourist office in Brive or the sector concerned (vezere-perigord.fr; terresdecorreze.com; tourisme-hautecorreze.fr).

Courteix, church open every day;
Saint-Merd-les-Oussineschurch open every day, fountain with free access;
Lestards, church open every day;
Chavanac, church open on Saturday during the day;
Suddenly-Lavinadière, priory with free access, for the church inquire at the town hall on 05 55 98 07 53.
Guided tour of the Varetz Commandery : Wednesday May 1st, Friday May 17th. Reservation with Brive-tourisme.com. The chapel, located 3 kilometers away, can be visited by asking the town hall for the keys.
Commandery of Condat-sur-Vézère, see with the CCCH association: www.commanderiecondat.fr
Visit to the tithe barn of La Cassagne (24120 Terrasson) from July 15 to August 31 from 2:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. Such. 05 53 51 66 43.

WHERE TO EAT

At Françoise’s. An address renowned for its traditional Corrèze dishes. On the menu: crayfish or sweetbread tourtou, stuffed cabbage, calf’s head and apple flognarde, to accompany a bottle from the incredible cellar of Françoise Bleu, whose passion it is. The restaurant is backed by a grocery store and a wine cellar. Menu at €33. 24, rue de la Fontaine-du-Rat, 19250 Meymac. Such. 05 55 95 10 63.

Moon. Having worked in renowned establishments, the young chef Nicolas Laval opened this restaurant in Brive which takes the place of La Toupine. Amandine Renault provides room service. Daily special at €14 at midday from Tuesday to Friday. A la carte, starters €13-16, main courses €22-24, desserts €9. 27, avenue Pasteur, 19100 Brive-la-Gaillarde. Such. 05 55 23 71 58, www.restaurantmoon.fr

The Mandrake. In the heart of the old town, you can savor homemade cuisine while enjoying a superb view of the Vézère from the terrace. Daily menu at €29. Place de l’Abbaye, 24120 Terrasson-Lavilledieu. Such. 05 53 51 34 17, www.restaurant-mandragore.fr

OR SLEEP

The Priory of the Coast. This set of beautiful restored buildings, which date back at least to the 18th century, brings together a charming three-bedroom gîte with Nordic bath and sauna, a summer stopover gîte and a “bridge” studio for those who want to test their settlement in the region. . Anthropologist and archaeologist, Stéphanie Douillard runs courses on change. €100 per night at the gîte with a minimum of three nights and €90 cleaning fees. Rue de la Côte, 19170 Saint-Merd-les-Oussines. Such. 06 08 96 82 51.

The Hostellerie de la Commanderie. We stay here in one of the old commandery buildings, surrounded by a vast 17th century park. With a family home spirit for the seven spacious rooms, sought after by regulars. Bedroom 4 has a vaulted ceiling and a period fireplace. Also a restaurant. €98 per double room. €12 for breakfast. 24570 Condat-sur-Vézère. Such. 05 53 51 26 49, hotel-lacommanderie.com