We must imagine an oyster lost in the middle of rivers of diamonds spilling onto a long presentation table. This is the spectacle that amazed Elizabeth II, then crown princess, on the day of her marriage to Prince Philip, November 30, 1947. Jewels as far as the eye could see – gifts from the families of the bride and groom, peers of the kingdom and crowned heads from all over the world – and… this oyster! If the mollusk stands out alongside the designer cases of the big names on Rue de la Paix, the treasures it contains nevertheless surpass many of the jewels offered on this autumn day.
Inside this marine setting, seven natural pearls patiently await their new owner. Harvested off the coast of Bahrain, they are offered by the sovereign of this former British protectorate, Salman bin Hamad Al Khalifa. Almost 77 years to the day after the wedding of the parents of King Charles III, their diaphanous luster continues to sublimate the women of the royal family. The Princess of Wales, who has had usufruct of them since 2016, adorned herself with two of them, mounted as drop earrings at the end of the 1940s, undoubtedly by Garrard, the Court jeweler, the November 10, on the occasion of Remembrance Sunday.
Of the seven original pearls, only these have been used in the making of jewelry. Mounted on platinum, they are suspended from a delicate composition beginning with a large brilliant, weighing approximately one carat, crowning three smaller brilliants and three baguette-cut diamonds. A typical creation of post-World War II jewelry which combines curves and right angles, in a simplified reminiscence of the Art Deco style of previous decades.
Two pearls for four women
She appreciated their lightness and wore them several times at the beginning of her reign. If today they are worn more with city outfits, the Queen took them out at night, with tiara and large cord, as in one of her first portraits as a sovereign – matching the pearls of George’s state crown IV and the necklace of the Nizam of Hyderabad, also a wedding gift. It must be said that, during the day, Her Majesty wore almost exclusively the pearl and diamond earrings given to her by Queen Mary, again, on her wedding day.
Elizabeth II will make more sporadic use of…
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