Who to choose? It’s up to you, but frankly, they’re all worth trying. For the best pastry chef in the world 2024, Nina Métayer, there are only a few hours to wait since the opening of her two establishments (Chez Paillat and Le Fournil) is scheduled for mid-November. Let’s trust the former pastry chef of Jean-François Piège to delight her community. In the meantime, the Rochelais are spoiled for choice. From the same generation as Amaury Lafonta (29 years old), 2023 world pastry champion, Théo Chereau, 27 years old, is a virtuoso. The one who began to treat on a ban of the central market after having worked in London palaces and the establishment of the triple Michelin-starred chef, Eric Frechon, has had a boutique on rue du Minage since 2020.
Jeweled cakes
He is undoubtedly the least traditional of this galaxy of new talents. Jewel cakes and combinations that clash. Example ? Its blood red pepper: crispy, financial biscuit, Espelette pepper ganache, black cherry compote, strawberries, candied lemon marmalade. The sea urchin trompe l’oeil with Ré seaweed, pineapple compote and marmalade, yuzu and light black sesame cream is even more stunning.
Brix, run by Sarah Houis (28 years old) and Stanislas Ricou (33 years old), plays the eco-responsible gourmet card. “I worked in palaces, it was incredible, but I was disappointed by the food waste” says Stanislas. The pastry chef in the Coligny district (who also has a tea room) refuses colorings and flavorings. “We reduce sugar as much as possible and we play the organic card as much as possible.” To try: the crispy puffed rice with raisins, creamy with verjuice and organic whipped cream.
Jonchée and Essaouira
Élisabeth M, from the Ottou sisters (Lisa, 23 years old, and Charlotte, 27 years old), opened a candy pink setting a year ago, with girly decor specializing in tartlets (the large cakes are available on weekends or to order). Fine flower tarts (rose, poppy, violet, depending on the season) rub shoulders with daring dishes rooted in the territory such as organic jonchée flower, sweet pastry, almond cream, pear-vanilla compote, organic jonchée cream, bitter almond ).
Finally, two addresses: the bakery pastries of Marie (36 years old) and Hugo Tayon (37 years old), from Quignon. Try their Rolls, with raspberry, peanut, popcorn or pistachio. To die for. Finally, Binome was distinguished in 2024 by the Gault et Millau artisanal house label. A seasonal dessert? The autumn fig, grape and prickly pear tart. A bonus? Essaouira cabbage Almond, orange blossom, date and fresh lemon.
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