Immediately after Paris Fashion Week Male Fall-Winter 2025-2026 s‘Open Haute Couture Week With 28 houses presenting their spring-summer 2025 know-how, From January 27 to 30.
On notes the return to the Valentino calendar with its new artistic director, Alessandro Michele, but also of Julien supplied, absent last season because he dressed Marie-Antoinette for the Grévin museum. The guest members Gaurav Gupta, Maison Sara Chraibi and RVDK Ronald van der Kemp are joined by German houses and Miss Sohee.
Chanel opens a new chapter with Matthieu Blazy
At the end of 2024, Chanel made the choice of Matthieu Blazy, as artistic director responsible for haute couture collections, ready-to-wear and accessories, ending months of suspense. The 40-year-old Franco-Belgian, debauched from Bottega Veneta (Kering group), was preferred to the better known names that circulated like Hedi Slimane, Simon Porte Jacquemus or Pierpaolo Piccioli, to one of the most coveted posts on the planet fashion. The one who was the discreet artistic director of the Italian label since 2021 has the heavy charge of embodying the Chanel line and turning the page Karl Lagerfeld: the Kaiser reigned over Chanel for more than three decades. His right arm Virginie Viard succeeded him on his death in 2019, before suddenly leaving the house in June 2024.
The owner of the brand, Alain Wertheimer, and his leader, Leena Nair, see him as “One of the most gifted creators of its generation. His vision and talent will strengthen the energy of the brand and our position as leader in luxury “. Chanel Bruno Pavlovsky’s fashion president “Bold personality” et “The innovative and powerful approach to creation” blazy “As well as his attachment to artisanal know-how and beautiful materials”.
Passionate about contemporary art and design, Matthieu Blazy grew up in Paris and spent a year in a military boarding school in England when he was a teenager. He studied fashion at the Cambre Brussels visual arts school. His end -of -studies collection seduces Raf Simons, who hires him to work for his eponymous brand. Four years later, he went to the Haute Couture Artisanale de Maison Margiela line. In 2015, he created for Céline under the direction of Phoebe Philo before returning alongside Simons at Calvin Klein from 2016 to 2019.
Alessandro Michele moves to Valentino
The Italian stylist Alessandro Michele took the creative direction of this house founded in 1960, where he succeeds Pierpaolo Piccioli. His first ready-to-wear collection was presented during the Paris Fashion Week Paris in the fall of 2024. We are waiting for his haute couture.
Founded in Rome in 1960 by Valentino Garavani, Valentino is an Italian luxury house recognized internationally, with a network of 211 stores in more than 25 countries. In July 2023, the luxury group Kering announced the acquisition of a 30% participation in Valentino with an option to acquire 100% of the Italian fashion house by 2028.
Alessandro Michele had left Gucci in 2022, owned by Kering, after seven years as Director of Creation during which he transformed the Florentine brand but without however succeeding in receiving sales with the same vigor as its competitors .
Kevin Germanier: Haute Couture Olympics
In September 2024, he paraded at Paris Fashion Female Spring-summer 2025, this time Kevin Germanier was invited to the Haute Couture Week for a show highlighted “Innovation, creativity and daring where each silhouette and every detail of this collection will tell a story of passion and dedication “, True to his commitment to recycling. Each piece will be a celebration of sustainable fashion, reinventing and transforming existing materials into unique creations. “It is the fulfillment of a child’s dream, that of a little boy who spent hours imagining a world where everything was possible thanks to the dolls”, underlined the creator.
Recognized for its innovative use of recycled materials since the launch of its brand in 2018, Kevin Germanier has signed, in partnership with Nona Source, a sustainable initiative of the LVMH group, the spectacular outfits of the artistic and musical fence show Records From the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, August 11, 2024. Chosen for his values, he ensured the design of the entire 120 outfits, marking his singular imprint of the Upcycling this historic moment.
-The Swiss-born in Granges in the canton of Valais, and based in Paris-grew up in the skirts of his mother and his grandmother, already noting that we “Sewed a flower when there was a hole on it rather than going to buy a new one.” Pushed by his family, he enrolled in the London Central Saint Martins. Like all this generation, by conviction as much as out of necessity, the stylist has made a religion of upcycling or an overcling: the use of fabric falls, stock materials and other unsold. It all starts during an internship in Hong Kong, with pearl sachets “Too close to the window that had discolored the sun”says Kévin Germanier. “The upcycling is not going to a vintage thrift store and doing something with a t-shirt is really doing with garbage”he develops. The AS of pearl and color belongs to the young generation of uninhibited and brilliant designers who make the notoriety of the new Parisian fashion place from the Olympic Games.
Miss Sohee, between crafts and innovation
First parade for Miss Sohee as a guest house in the official calendar. The founder and creative director Sohee Park, known as Miss Sohee, is a seamstress based in London. The brand Inspired the Korean heritage of the founder and her penchant for antiques and ancient objects that are reflected in the forms and silhouettes of her collections. Romantic motifs and Korean Paintings Minhwa play an equally important role in the construction of its visual language, which is found in complex embroidery and colors of patterns. To underline the importance of crafts and innovation, Sohee Park reinterprets the old through its contemporary gaze.
Considered one of the most exciting names in the red carpet by Harper’s Bazaar UK and as a “real artist” by Vogue Francehis creations appear frequently on Red Met Gala carpets, the Cannes Film and Oscar Festival. She also presented its looks in international exhibitions, in particular Hallyu! The Korean Wave in London and The Love of Couture: Artisanship in Fashion Beyond Time in Hong Kong. In 2022, she designed the Christmas tree of Victoria & Albert Museum.
The dress worn by Rihanna to the Dior gallery
Impossible not to have seen the advertising of Rihanna, the new muse of I adorecult fragrance of the house. More magnetic and sensual than ever, the star is the heroine of a campaign signed by American photographer Steven Klein. Telling the story of a metamorphosis – dazzling incarnation of a triumphant femininity -, the film features the singer in the dreamlike decor of the Palace of Versailles, under the gold of the Galerie des Glaces, in a haute couture bustier dress imagined by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior. Completely embroidered with a multitude of pearls – a real work of goldsmith, revealing all the vibrant nuances of gold -, this outfit required thousands of hours of infinite minute to the small hands of 30 Montaigne, translating all The audacity, inventiveness and virtuosity of the workshops.
This creation-with an aerial tulle cape but also a necklace and mittens-brijoux-is revealed in the room The power of gold From the Dior gallery of the 30 Montaigne.
The exhibition “Nuances de Bleu” by Van Cleef & Arpels
During this haute couture week, it is traditional that the jewelry houses have their know-how. No need for an invitation card to discover until June 30 that the Heritage Gallery, within the boutique of 20 Place Vendôme, hosts the exhibition Nuances De Bleu Par van Cleef & Arpels.
Nearly 60 jeweler and watchmaking creations, from the heritage collection, and nine original archives offer an immersion in the heart of the blue palette deployed by the house of Haute Joaillerie since its foundation in 1906. deep, azure, pastel, overseas, indigo, Cobalt…, the extent of the nuances offered by gems or obtained by the use of know-how is large. By drawing for more than a hundred years from the range of these colors, Van Cleef & Arpels expresses with poetry the richness of its creativity: blue has accompanied its imagination since its origins (Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
The book “Coco Chanel. A legend, a life” by Justine Picardie
Finally, here is a work devoted to Coco Chanel whose name remains associated with the little black dress, its emblematic tailor, women’s pants, successful perfumes and the most famous haute couture brand of all time, which worked in making a myth of his life. Behind, however, looms a darker, more mysterious and more intriguing reality. Thanks to the discovery of new elements on the childhood of Gabrielle Chanel, Justine Picardie dates back to the source of the legend, which begins in the poverty of an orphanage in Corrèze and the difficult condition of young women without dowry of the Belle Epoque. Enlightening Chanel’s romantic relationships with a new day as well as the strong ties that united it to artists like Jean Cocteau, Serge Diaghilev, Pablo Picasso or Salvador Dalì, Justine Picardie realizes a portrait of the designer that we discover Tour Tour artist, muse and generous patron. This biography is nourished by unpublished interviews but also from unknown photos from English private archives, revealing how his powerful and imagination personality was forged to create an empire in a closed world to entrepreneurs. The author also returns to the legend of the seamstress during the war and shed light on her role then.
