Fashion in Paris –
End clap for the fashion antiques dealer
Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr will distribute the latest collections by Didier Ludot.
Published today at 8:54 p.m.
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“The Last Passage”, Didier Ludot collection. This is how the man who officiated at the Palais-Royal in Paris for fifty years marks his curtain fall.
Indeed, on January 30, the Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr auction house will put up for auction some 350 lots, including historic haute couture dresses signed by the greatest.
Among them, 80 that we owe to Yves Saint Laurent, one of Didier Ludot’s favorite couturiers. But also Chanel, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Lanvin and many others. The fashion antiques dealer, as he is nicknamed in the industry, confides with nostalgia how much this world has changed and how much he no longer recognizes himself in it. Excerpts.
Let’s focus on this final sale, “The Last Passage”. What do you feel?
This is the fourth auction we have held. This is the last, in a way the summary of my fifty years at the Palais-Royal. Besides, my two stores are empty and I have put them up for sale. But I must admit that the current fashion world no longer concerns me at all. I’m more Jacqueline de Ribes than Rihanna. I have had extraordinary exchanges with my clients. They were educated and had a deep love of fabric, history, crafts.
What are the flagship lots?
Of the 350 pieces, there are more than 80 outfits made by Yves Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, including the “Sévillane” model, this famous short evening dress in black Calais chantilly lace. He created it when he worked for Christian Dior in 1959. The same goes for the “Coquine” model. These pieces carry within them a piece of history. Saint Laurent is one of my favorite couturiers and I was quite privileged to be able to acquire prototypes for haute couture shows. These are therefore models which have not been modified for clients, the proportions are those desired by the maestro.
Who do you think are the potential customers for the sale on January 30?
Major museum institutions, but also fashion house archives and enthusiasts. It is also very important to me that everyone finds what they need. There will be clothes for all prices, for example a little black dress by Nina Ricci will be sold at 350 euros.
Isn’t it hard to see your favorite pieces go?
Yes, of course, but they are in my head, I know them by heart. The good thing is that I’ve never worn them. So, from the moment I acquired them, it was entirely possible for me to get rid of them. And after all these years, I will now enjoy life, nature and perhaps dedicate a book to everything I have experienced throughout my career.
Why did you choose Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr for this latest sale and in particular Hubert Felbacq, director of the fashion and accessories department?
Hubert is a friend of thirty years, passionate, a wonderful person and a great professional. He still reached the record for a haute couture piece signed Schiaparelli which sold for 500,000 euros! And then, this isn’t the first time he’s organized one of my sales. Already in 2021, this was the case.
If there was only one memory, what would it be?
In fifty years, there have been so many. Perhaps a fairly recent memory. Nicole Kidman stopped by and stayed trying on dresses and chatting with me for over four hours. Besides, today, only stars wear haute couture dresses that are lent to them. As Pierre Bergé said: “Haute couture is an art of living.” There’s an outfit for every moment of the day. It is now a time gone by, and personally, I live in my memories which I cherish dearly.
Carol Kittner East journalist for the magazine Tribune des Arts since 2021. Specialist in contemporary art, watchmaking and jewelry, she worked for Edelweiss and worked in public relations in the world of luxury since 2001. More info
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