The Auberge de la Poule noire and its traditional cuisine will be on television, on M6, Monday November 18, at 5:30 p.m. The establishment is the only one in Nièvre in this case.
We were used to seeing the architectural and religious heritage of La Charité-sur-Loire being highlighted. Monday November 18, for once, it will be its gastronomic heritage. Indeed, the cuisine of L’Auberge de la Poule noire will be on M6, at 5:30 p.m., in “The best regional cuisine, it’s at home”, a new program giving pride of place to French culinary regions.
“I have two passions. Cooking and finding mushrooms »
The Charitois restaurant is one of eight establishments in Burgundy and Franche-Comté to have received a visit from chefs Yoann Conte, two Michelin stars and “Cook of the Year 2024” according to Gault et Millau, and Norbert Tarayre, colorful chef of 19.20 of the Prince of Wales in Paris. And the only one in Nivernais land.
It is in old stones that we make the best soup…
Installed in the former gatehouse of the priory, La Poule noire has been run by Émilie Saintandré since 2012. A takeover of an establishment that has been abandoned for years. The work takes place within the family. After working with her sister and her mother, she currently works with her niece Camille, who serves in the dining room.
If the walls belong to the town of La Charité-sur-Loire, the business is owned by Émilie Saintandré, manager and chef, even if she has little taste for the appellation. “I have two passions,” she explains, “looking for mushrooms and cooking. I’m lucky it goes together. »
In a tradition of “eating well”
From Tuesday to Saturday, lunchtime and evening, L’Auberge de la Poule noire offers traditional cuisine for 40 seats spread over two levels.
“We are very attached to the word traditional because in this area, we are dinosaurs. There is no longer any traditional cuisine,” explains Émilie Saintandré, who describes her menu as “a return to basics with values, culinary bases”, arguing for know-how to work with quality products. The work is done on the slate, the menu often changes depending on the market, while retaining the Burgundian classics such as eggs in meurette, snails and of course beef bourguignon.
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“A great time”
An identity that seems attractive since the restaurateur had already been approached in the past for another show, “Le Combat des chefs”. But ultimately she was not selected. “The production told me: ‘Nièvre is not a seller’”, remembers the chef, who nevertheless made a good enough impression to be called back for this program highlighting regional cuisines. “The casting director and the producer wanted us,” explains Émilie Saintandré. They insisted. And they did well! »
“It shows that you can still eat well in small restaurants in small towns. »
Émilie Saintandré (Manager and chef of the Auberge de la Poule noire)
Filming took place in May, over two days. “A great time,” according to Émilie and Camille. “The whole team was very nice. The chefs, full of kindness, gave us a lot of advice. They made us feel confident, as if we had known them for years. » However, the two women speak of “a tsunami” when the film crew arrived. “In half an hour, they redid all the decor. »
“We have the impression of being forgotten between gourmet cuisine and fast food”
“It’s nice to have this kind of program to promote traditional cuisine. This shows that you can still eat well in small restaurants in small towns,” explains Émilie, who has the impression of being forgotten between gourmet restaurants and fast food restaurants. “We work hard but we are not always rewarded.”A good spotlight for an establishment whose architecture also stands out. (Photo Félix Paulet)
However, she notices more and more young people in her establishment. “The clientele is getting younger and that’s nice. People who rediscover French tradition. »
Felix Paulet
