A historic back-to-school event for over fifty years, are wine fairs in decline? Long popular with enthusiasts who saw it as a great opportunity to restock their cellar without spending too much, the event no longer seems like a must-see for wine drinkers. Although still strategic for distributors, the commercial operation that follows the back-to-school event has become, half a century after its creation by Leclerc stores in 1973, of capital importance for the wine trade in France, which is currently rather moribund, not to say in crisis in some regions. For part of the production, the 2024 operation even has the appearance of a rescue mission since it will involve reducing stocks that are weighing on treasuries.
Ideally placed in the calendar, after the summer conducive to consumption and before the end of the year when the good bottles will be out for the holidays, the autumn wine fairs are nevertheless always a chance to do good business. Overall, the selections of the brands (physical, e-commerce or wine merchants) have demonstrated this year a desire for discovery, in order to differentiate themselves, between unknown nuggets and classic references, thus highlighting the work of the buyers or advisors (sommeliers, etc.) who accompany them. Of course, we will always find enticing promotional offers that we must be wary of.
Wine fairs are always a chance to get a good deal
While the regulars of the event will be on time, during the opening evenings, to fill their shopping carts (or even several), it remains to be seen whether new consumers will be seduced in the future by the somewhat rigid format of wine fairs. Many brands have thus changed their way of communicating during the operation, like Monoprix, which uses audiovisual formats to present the references of its fair. Between inflation which always disrupts the results of retailers, a drop in wine consumption and a very unstable political situation, the 2024 vintage of autumn wine fairs has everything to be a complicated edition. For the amateur, however, there are good surprises to be found.
DIRLER-CADÉ ESTATE
RIESLING, ALSACE GRAND CRU SAERING 2021
Ideal for building up your cellar, make room for Alsace wines. Produced from biodynamic viticulture, this fine and delicious Riesling will give you wonderful emotions in a few years.
36 euros chez Wineandco
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DOMAINE BELARGUS
THE TREILLES 2020, ANJOU
In the Loire, Ivan Massonnat’s Belargus is one of the most interesting estates. An entrepreneurial winemaker, he has given new life to this superb Treilles hillside, where he produces this complex Chenin, driven by an impressive salinity.
140 euros at Millésimes
GUIRAUD CASTLE
G DE GUIRAUD 2023, WHITE BORDEAUX
Certified in organic viticulture, Guiraud is a reference in Sauternes thanks to its superb sweet wines. Its dry white is also a success, with its notes of ripe fruit and its toasted finish.
13.45 euros at Intermarché
CHAIZE CASTLE
THE MARQUIS 2022, BROUILLY
Relaunched by the Gruy family, this splendid estate is an address to follow for lovers of light reds. We recommend this fruity Brouilly, with a gourmet finish.
8.15 euros at Intermarché
CHAMPAGNE DEVAUX
TRIBUTE TO MARGUERITE
Housed in a manor house in the heart of the Côte des Bar, this family home is an address for pleasure champagnes, like this invigorating, balanced and persistent bubble.
29.90 euros at Monoprix
CHAMPAGNE PIPER-HEIDSIECK
VINTAGE 2015
It is impossible for the connoisseur to miss the 2015 from this Reims house, renowned for its champagnes. Finesse, persistence and freshness: we reserve it for a gastronomic pairing.
42.10 euros at Leclerc
DAUVERGNE RANVIER
GRAND WINE 2022, CÔTE-RÔTIE
A great wine in a prestigious appellation, signed by a duo of merchants specializing in pleasure wines. Notes of red fruits, caressing tannins, it is a balanced Côte-Rôtie.
49.95 euros at Carrefour
SAINTE ROSELINE CASTLE
THE CLOISTER 2023, CÔTES-DE-PROVENCE
An essential estate, Sainte-Roseline excels in the production of elegant and balanced Provence rosés. Floral notes, smoky flavors, saline finish, this 2023 is the companion of a grilled fish.
12.90 euros at Monoprix
CAVE DE TAIN
EXPLORATION 2023, CROZES-HERMITAGE
Cited as an example for its remarkable work, the Tain cellar is a serious address where you can find superb wines. Straight on the palate and with slight bitterness, this white is a success.
14,55 euros chez Lavinia
BRUNO GIACOSA HOUSE
SWEET D’ALBA 2021 (ITALY)
Sought after, Bruno Giacosa’s wines are a priority for the wine lover who wants to build up a cellar worthy of the name. He must seize this gourmet dolcetto with its aromas of black fruits and prunes.
20,90 euros chez iDealwine
FIFTH OF ROMANEIRA
DONA CLARA 2018, DOURO (PORTUGAL)
This property located in the majestic Douro Valley belongs to Axa Millésimes. In addition to excellent ports, you will also find this tannic and powerful red, suitable for good aging.
19.95 euros at Magasin U
POINT DOMAIN
CLOS DES DUNES 2022, IGP LANDES
Antoine Pétrus, the master sommelier who is in charge of the brand’s selection, chose this curiosity. These are the last vines established on the dunes of Capbreton. It is a red of pleasure, supple and pleasant.
18.60 euros at Le Petit Ballon
BOUSCASSÉ TOWER CASTLE
PACHERENC DU VIC-BILH 2021
Alain Brumont, the man who put Madiranais on the map of great French wines, signs this intense white, which blends the Petit Courbu and Manseng grape varieties, and expresses notes of almonds.
8.50 euros at Magasin U
GÉRARD BERTRAND
THE INDOMPTABLE OF CIGALUS 2022, IGP PAYS D’OC
Among the wines of Gérard Bertrand, a demanding winemaker, Cigalus is one of the most popular. In its “indomptable” version, power and roundness give intensity to a tasty expression.
15.65 euros at Leclerc
DOMAINE TETRAMYTHOS
RODITIS PATRAS 2023, PELOPONNESE (GREECE)
Great discovery with the wine offered by this Greek estate which highlights indigenous grape varieties. Freshness, floral notes (lily) and persistence.
16 euros chez Lavinia
CHÂTEAU CARBONNIEUX
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2022
A classic Bordeaux, intense with its red fruit aromas and pleasant with its silky tannins. It gives pleasure and will improve for another two or three years.
34.90 euros at Auchan
LOPEZ DE HEREDIA WINERIES
VINEYARD TONDONIA RESERVA 2011 (RIOJA, SPAIN)
For those who don’t know it, we recommend this superb red from this historic Rioja estate. Aged for six years in barrels, this round tempranillo is as complex as it is subtle.
37.90 euros at Les Passionnés du vin
PAVIE MACQUIN CASTLE
SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU 2015
Classified growth valued for the purity of its wines, this property is accustomed to excellence. Aromatic expression between red fruits and menthol, round tannins, finesse, this is the great bottle of this selection.
89,10 euros chez iDealwine
CHÂTEAU LILIAN LADOUYS
SAINT-ESTÈPHE 2020
Well managed by the teams of entrepreneur Jacky Lorenzetti, this benchmark vintage offers seductive wines, like this suave 2020 thanks to its round tannins.
15.99 euros at Intermarché
WINEGROWERS OF SECRET LANDS
SPIRIT OF PLACES 2023, SAINT-VÉRAN
A benchmark for Mâconnais appellations, this group of cooperative cellars, certified in sustainable development, offers this chardonnay representative of its terroir with its saline finish.
9.95 euros at Carrefour
Dates to remember
LARGE AND MEDIUM-SIZED SURFACES
Auchan From 10 to 29/09 (supermarkets) and from 27/09 to 7/10 (hypermarkets)
Carrefour from 09/26 to 10/8 (proximity), from 10/3 to 10/20 (supermarkets) and from 09/24 to 10/7 (hypermarkets)
Intermarche From 10 to 29/09
Leclerc From 1st to 13th October
U Stores From 09/24 to 10/6
Monoprix From 13 to 29/09
WINE MERCHANTS
Lavinia From 2/09 to 6/10
Nicolas From 11/09 to 8/10
ONLINE SITES
iDealwine From 06 to 09/27
Millésimes.com from 10 to 22/09
Wine Enthusiasts from 09/04 to 09/23
The Little Balloon From 6/09 to 6/10
Wineandco Until 10/1