American designer Tory Burch unveiled a collection on Monday with bold designs, imbued with the spirit of sport but without venturing into sportswear.
Asked by AFP about the latter, which has taken the fashion world by storm for a decade, the adopted New Yorker dismissed it, preferring to talk about “the spirit and essence of sport” for this spring/summer 2025 vintage.
It is thus a question of “movement, freedom, precision”, she explained, the collection notes also evoking, behind this theme, “power and grace”.
“That was the starting point,” according to Tory Burch, who this year celebrated the 20th anniversary of her eponymous house, which has become one of the must-sees at New York Fashion Week.
Freedom and movement were found in loose wool pants and wrap dresses that left the thighs showing as the models walked the catwalk.
The power, however, shone through in the assembly of different pieces, fabrics and cuts, serving a woman who wants to be seen without exposing herself.
“It came as we were working” on the collection, Burch explained. “I wanted to be careful not to have too many different patterns, but that the textures, materials and colors all came together well.”
One of the standout pieces was a pair of ultra-light suede pants with a rope belt and a tight-fitting sweater with red and white designs.
The unstructured garment, such as this transparent white jersey shirt with ruffles and overlong sleeves, was paired with its formal counterpart, brown wool trousers.
Once again, the Pennsylvania native stood out from the style that made her famous, namely the combination of the bourgeois New England look (preppy) and a bohemian coloring.
A regular at New York’s iconic locations, Tory Burch this time chose the top floor of the former Domino’s sugar factory in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, with a breathtaking view of Manhattan.
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In addition to Ana Wintour, actresses Michelle Williams, Elizabeth Olsen and Kristen Stewart also attended.
The collection seemed to give a nod to the previous one, with these flared skirts at the waist, which recalled those rectangular shaped with surprising waves seen this winter.
“I talk a lot with our teams. I want a dialogue,” the designer described. “I want to evolve and go in new directions, but it’s important to keep continuity.”
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