In culinary literature, mushrooms have not always been spoiled, and have never really had their moment of glory. If there is indeed the bible of chef Régis Marcon, for eternity, they have rarely had the opportunity to shine in bookstores. This is what pushed the author, photographer and food stylist Émilie Franzo, also known under the pseudonym @plus_une_miette, to write a book to restore this injustice.
Also see on Konbini
In MushroomsÉmilie Franzo delivers around sixty recipes, original, creative or traditional, around mushrooms from stracciatella & chanterelle toast to linguine to mushroom bolognese, including the pulled oyster mushroom burger. Interview.
Konbini｜How did the idea for this book come about?
Émilie Franzo｜On this project, I admit to having been very opportunistic. I had an appointment with my editor to finalize my previous work Homemade soups published in 2023, and on his desk I saw a note with writing “mushrooms?”. She was actually thinking about the editorial program for 2024 and she wanted to produce a book on this theme. So I took the liberty of telling him that I loved mushrooms and that it was a very good idea to write a book on this subject. What she replied to me : “Would you be interested in doing it?”. And that's how it all started.
Why were you interested in mushrooms?
For me, mushrooms are still one of those little-known and unloved vegetables. There are hundreds of varieties and yet they are often reduced to button mushrooms which are confined to a cold salad or as a small accompaniment to meat. It is a tasty vegetable, which we are often reluctant to cook because we do not know what to do with it or how to prepare it. Which is a shame when we know that it is full of nutrients, rich in vitamins, low in fat, therefore a very good food. And also quite simply because I love it!
Why was it important to restore the nobility of mushrooms?
I think it was important to put the mushroom back in the spotlight because today, there aren't that many cookbooks on the subject and especially those that do exist are really aimed at experts. On the one hand we have the bible by Régis Marcon which is an extraordinary and sublime book but whose chef's recipes can frighten beginners. And on the other, books very focused on gathering which are therefore aimed at people who have access to woods or forests around their home, and who have some knowledge on the subject. Because I don't know about you, but personally, even with a book on picking under my arm, I'm not sure I would dare to go there.
Very often, these books list many varieties, go in-depth on technical information but remain very superficial on the “cooking” part with only around ten recipes in the book. Or we end up with interesting recipes but with mushrooms to which we don't have access.
Why are mushrooms so important in French culinary culture?
The mushroom is truly an emblematic ingredient of regional cuisines and traditional French recipes, it embodies both a local product and a wealth of culinary interpretation that spans the ages. It can both be a simple garnish but become a flagship product, capable of enhancing a simple omelette, enhancing a sauce or taking the lead in a main dish, as in the famous “mushrooms in cream” or “ mushroom vol-au-vent”. The button mushroom is also a good example of this importance in the French culinary landscape. It has been cultivated since the 17th century in quarries in the Paris region, and its consumption has been popularized throughout the ages. Today, it remains one of the symbols of French gastronomy, even if new products, such as exotic mushrooms, also find their place in contemporary cuisines.
How did you think of the recipes?
As with all my books, the goal was to offer simple and accessible recipes so that people could make them relatively quickly, without having to go to three different stores to find the ingredients. So in this sense we could say that they are household recipes, but it is also important to me to always offer original and innovative recipes. I'm trying to find the little one twist which is surprising, the ingredient that we might not have thought of like when I offer croque-monsieur with eryngii that we caramelize in maple syrup and miso. I start with a simple recipe that everyone loves: croque, and I think of a way to make it even more delicious and original.
What’s your ultimate recipe for enjoying mushrooms?
I will say my chicken with creamy sauce, chanterelles and chanterelle. This is precisely the right compromise to convince those who are reluctant to use mushrooms. There is meat, cream and parmesan so it will attract them at first. On the mushroom side, chanterelles and chanterelles provide a fairly sweet and round flavor which goes very well with the cream. It's a comforting, delicious dish, very easy to make and which normally everyone agrees on.
What do you think are the most notable recipes in the book?
Mushroom soup with miso and coconut milk: very simple to make, comforting, and an original combination of mushrooms with coconut milk and miso. Spaghetti and mushroom bolognese: perfect for getting children to eat mushrooms, and shiitake and tofu congee: we always make three tons of rice because we don't know how to measure it, so this recipe is perfect for reusing leftovers. And what's more, she's really good. I'm also thinking of mushroom bourguignon: ideal for vegetarians and not only that. The little one twist : the soy sauce which brings depth to the recipe, and the croque-monsieur raclette and eryngii glazed with miso: I have no other arguments than the fact that it is regressive and delicious!
Can you also make comfort food with mushrooms?
Obviously ! You've probably already come across a Portobello burger dripping with cheddar, or a burger garnished with shredded oyster mushrooms. In my book, I also offer recipes for these two versions but also nachos with oyster mushrooms, a pizza with mushrooms and burrata, or even tostadas. Watch out, I can already see you drooling.
Stupid question, but a question nonetheless: can we “really” replace meat and get cool things with mushrooms?
What I love about mushroom is its ability to mimic the deep, savory flavors of meat. For what ? Because it is naturally rich in umami, this famous fifth taste which is often associated with meat, cheese or broths. This particular taste, both complex and comforting, makes it an ideal alternative for those looking to reduce their meat consumption while maintaining the taste satisfaction that we often obtain with meat. What’s also really good about mushrooms is that they offer an incredible range of textures.
We often talk about their “meaty” side, and it’s true that with the right mushrooms, we find this satisfying chewiness which can act as a substitute for meat. For example, oyster mushrooms or portobello mushrooms: their texture is tender but firm, almost “fibrous”, and their volume allows you to make nice thick slices. By smell, texture and taste, they can easily fool the meatiest among us. And then there is the creative dimension of course. For example, a mushroom terrine with nuts, lentils and fresh herbs can replace a meat pâté or take the place of stuffing in a vegetarian roast. You can also make “fake” mushroom nuggets by coating them in a golden breading. Mushrooms are also excellent allies in sauces, whether creamy, tomatoy or red wine-based. They bring a depth and richness reminiscent of classic meat sauces, such as Bolognese or Burgundy but in a vegetable version.
How can you make an old button mushroom, small and all white, picked up at Franprix sexy?
By dipping it in homemade breading then in a frying bath. You get slightly crispy mushrooms. It can also be cut into brunoise and used as the base of a tasty bolognese or integrated into a creamy risotto.
What is the best technique for finding and/or picking mushrooms?
Have a good store that sells them! [elle rit] Through my book, I wanted to address people who do not necessarily have access to picking, whether because they live in an urban area or because they do not have the necessary knowledge to dare to venture into the forest in search of mushrooms. So I was interested in those that are most easily found in stores today to avoid the disappointment of having a book where you cannot make half of the recipes because you don't have the mushrooms you need. must.
What is the best mushroom ever ?
This question is much too difficult and quite subjective because it all depends on what you are looking for. For some, it would be the truffle because of its rarity and exceptional unique taste. For others, the porcini mushroom which is often considered one of the best mushrooms due to its firm, flavorful flesh, which gives off a deep, woodsy umami taste. Two mushrooms very popular with chefs.
But for me the best everyday mushroom would be shiitake. I love its distinctive smoky and umami taste. It is also a multi-use mushroom that works equally well in soups and stir-fries, but is also delicious fried. Its fleshy and elastic texture allows it to withstand cooking well and therefore broaden the possibilities of use in the kitchen.
Mushrooms (Marabout) by Émilie Franzo in bookstores.
Related News :