After the post-Cavid euphoria period, marked by two-digit growth in North America and Europe and carried in particular by the segments of makeup and perfume, the French market for prestigious beauty entered 2024 in a marked slowdown phase.
The first quarter of 2025 Today indicates a rupture of the dynamics with an REcul of -2% in valueagainst growth that was still maintained at +8% over the same period from January to March 2024.
« The 2024 Christmas period was not very good, unlike previous years. Today, concerns about the slowdown in the French market is very clear because it affects all categories “Confirms Mathilde Lion.
The parfumtraditional pillar of the segment, resists slightly better with -1% in value and -4% in units, but the surprise comes mainly from the category makeup which still progressed by +15% in early 2024 and now falls to -4% in value and -5% in units. THE careon the other hand, represents the most impacted category with a decline of -5% in value and -9% in volume. Only the hair part, marginal in size, experiences growth of 25% in value and 17% in units.
The decrease in the market is verified whatever the distribution mode since the physical stores display -2%, while e -commerce remains stable overall at +1%, thanks in particular to the perfumes which increase by +7%on this channel.
In perfume, polarization between ultra-luxe and accessibility
Some segments are still pulling out of the game. In the perfume category, this is the case for female who resist better than male, as well as boxes that continue to perform at +8%. “” This makes a price problem appear with a still strong trend on promotions “Indicates the expert.
Also note that Extracts and perfumes with high concentrations continue to progress at+18%, but also body sprays (+43%) or perfumes for hair (+5%).
« This divergence of consumer choices reflects a double trend. On the one hand, a clientele ready to invest in more luxurious products with more intensity, and on the other, a target younger or more sensitive to the price, which turns to accessible formats like body sprays whose average price is 23 euros, against 110 euros for an extract », Underlines Mathilde Lion.
In addition, toilet waters are continuing their decline with -12% this year, and watering water no longer increases for the first year.
-Make -up of makeup
Previously engine of the prestigious market, makeup is now with withdrawal, apart from a few segments. That of the complexion, increasing in recent years, has experienced a trend reversal with -7%. Only tinted creams (+9%) and accessories continue to progress. The lip segment remains slightly positive pulled mainly by hybrid products (balms, oils, liners), while the lipsticks are down.
Even more surprising, concealer and highlighters, very popular in recent years in accordance with the trend of lighter and natural routines, retreats at -14% and -28% respectively.
« The big change compared to 2024 is that the category was extremely carried by the MDD and exclusive brands, raised in power in recent years at the expense of historical actors. Today, they have a decline of -4% on makeup “Adds Mathilde Lion.
The care
In the care category, all the segments are decreasing, with the exception of boxes (+7% in value), and technical body care (deodorants, serums), which are experiencing two -digit progression, illustrating attention to new gestural and galenic in body care.
On the face of facial products, the only growing segments are makeup remover (+5%), clarifying tonics (+3%) and care for unpleasant lips, which fly to+26%.
United Kingdom and South Europe still in dynamics
At the regional level, European growth remains positive at +3% in value in the first quarter, against +10% in value over the same period in 2024. This is explained by decrease, particularly visible in France, but also in Germany which fell to -4%, and unlike the positive dynamics of the United Kingdomfrom theSpain andItaly.
Outside Europe, the American market knows only a slight increase at +1% in the first quarter.
« The year 2025 promises to be delicate for brands and brands of prestigious beauty. While some growth pockets remain, the challenge will be to re -enter the consumer by reaffirming the added value of prestige in the face of alternative consumption. In a difficult economic context, the problem of the price remains important as is competition from other sectors and other consumption platforms. We note, for example, that on the French market certain brands such as Rituals, adopt or Aroma Zone strongly progress “Says Mathilde Lion.
The specialist nevertheless invites to qualify the scope of this decline. « If the French prestigious market fell by -2% at the start of the year, it is still clearly increasing compared to three years back, or +17% versus the first quarter of 2022. The sector has experienced such increases in recent years that the situation of today has stabilized “, She underlines.
