There ESO Gallery of Gene Lemuel in Los Angeles presents until May 11 the work of Rusty Long, a surfer, journalist, writer and photographer. He writes:
From the first step in the water to the initial glide on a wave, a smooth entry determines many sequential moments. This sets the right pace.
Surfing, like so many other things, is about following the elements present. In the case of the ocean, the elements obviously don’t stop moving. They come from all directions, constantly transforming, undulating and evolving. Flowing with this ocean energy is intuitive, it is difficult, but over time it can become natural.
At the heart of this passion, this lifestyle or even this obsession with surfing is the simple connection between the Person, the Surfboard and the Wave. It’s very basic, personal and pure according to your own perception. Take the board of your choice, jump into the water, enjoy nature, slide on that wave and transform into a secret space.
The process takes hold of you unlike many things. It elevates the psyche; tests physical and mental abilities and almost always brings a smile. Such is the joy of this simple act with infinite possibilities of approach.
It’s extraordinary the lengths we surfers go to to ride these waves and the lives that flow from them. I spent 25 years traveling the world in this quest to surf the best waves and make them the focal point of my expansion. It’s taken me from the most remote corners to the ultra-urban vortexes and everything in between, and given me a treasure trove of memories and friendships.
Photographing these waves in their climactic moments of symmetry and perfection, the often breathtaking scenery that surrounds where they break, the array of characters who devote much of their lives to it, and the masterfully designed equipment that connects the everything, were the things that mainly caught my attention. This particular collection is a distilled glimpse of that.
Rusty Long
Rusty Long: Smooth Entrance
Until May 11, 2024
ESO Gallery
4856 Fountain avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90029
www.bureauderecherches.com
IG @rustylong
