Gastronomades, it starts this Friday: everything you need to know in the CL TV show

What is the art of French serving?

It means being able to present a beautiful table and respect all the codes, particularly symmetry. We start by placing the presentation plate and the bread plate on the left. For napkins, there is no real rule: folded or not or placed in the bread plate. The knife always on the right, the tines towards the plate, the fork on the left, the tines down, to see the coat of arms engraved on the back, the same for the spoon. Otherwise, it's an English setup. For the glasses, we start with the water cup towards the tip of the knife or in a cluster like at the Élysée. Be careful, everything must be perfectly aligned.

Why is France a reference in the art of service?

We have always been epicureans and always had a worldwide reputation in the world of gastronomy, thanks to Escoffier, the great pope of gastronomy. We still have 30 3-star restaurants in France.

What role does the head waiter play in a restaurant?

A service is like a ballet. We are represented, but discreetly. I often compare a restaurant to a theater. Each table is a scene and at each table something different happens. It is up to the maître d' to intervene, but he must wait for a sign from the customer. Above all, he must know the product, be able to explain it and tell the story of the dish. The kitchen writes the score and the room interprets it. It's exciting. This requires a lot of knowledge. Customers are more and more demanding.

What is your biggest fear while on duty?

I have never been stuck with a question. You have to be diplomatic. My biggest fear would be making a protocol error. I served the Queen of England in 1992 in Strasbourg. I had to be careful not to serve one person before another, so as not to come close to a diplomatic incident.

Has the profession been able to modernize?

In the 70s, we offered plated service. Today, we return to the large piece that we cut in the room, to the flaming in front of the table. We no longer only serve wine, but also tea and soft drinks. We placed all the glasses and cutlery on the table beforehand, so as not to disturb the customer. Now the setup is more refined. We create a scenario in front of the client by proposing a scene, bringing a palette of knives that we have them choose and we finish with the touch of light that we install in front of them. These are details, but excellence is in the details, so that it becomes an exceptional moment.

Is the tablecloth obligatory for Christmas Eve?

I like it. It's warm. For Christmas, you can choose red and green or gold and silver. At home, it will be gold and red. I am in Alsace. Red is Christmas. But it has to match your interior. The tablecloth is not essential if you have a beautiful wooden table. You can add a hemp table runner. 35% of restaurants today no longer have tablecloths. Now is the time to bring lots of light and candles. Don't hesitate to add a little more that day. And above all, have fun preparing this decor.

Three days to taste

Find the presentation of the program by Patrick Mardikian, the general delegate, in our program on Thursday and Friday on charentelibre.fr
Friday. The day is dedicated to youth competitions. At 12:45 p.m., competition between the CFAs, with a cooks and servers final on stage. At 3:45 p.m., young sommeliers competition. The Escoffier disciples will begin their first tastings at 4 p.m.
SATURDAY. Pineau tasting workshops all day long. The Escoffier disciples will lead demonstrations. On the big stage, we will find masterclasses and the joust of the 30^e anniversary between Flora Mikula and Patrick Jeffroy, former double star. The new thing is at 6 p.m.: a show mixing designers, chefs and musicians. The evening will end with the induction of the new Escoffier disciples.
Sunday. Free Pineau tastings, cooking classes and Escoffier demonstrations. On the big stage, chef Martin Dumas will recreate a temporary restaurant. The chefs of Nauve, Anthony Carballo and Aumi, Mickaël Cautour will be on stage at 3:30 p.m.
In Carat, Friday 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Saturday 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Entrance 3€.