Lively, green, cosmopolitan, historic, but not only that: the capital of Luxembourg is above all European! From the fortified center to the Government and business district, from the verdant Pfaffenthal to the picturesque Grund, the Grand Duchy plays a score in all tones. Text and photos: Estelle Boutheloup
The advantage here? Being able to use and abuse public transport: everything is free and at any time (or almost)! So there’s no question of depriving yourself: visits and discoveries at will. And wherever you come from! The heart of the city is easily accessible.
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Simple and fast, the tram
Hamilius stop, at the gates of the Upper Town. Monterey Avenue irrigates a maze of very lively and very commercial pedestrian streets (including Rue Philippe II and its luxury boutiques) up to Place d'Armes, Rue du Curé and the famous Place Guillaume II or Place Knuedler. “It is one of the emblematic squares of the city, specifies Adeline, guide for the tourist office, with a beautiful market of regional products on Wednesdays and Saturdays.”
There stands, monumental, the equestrian statue of the former king of the Netherlands and Grand Duke of Luxembourg, all in glory, cocked hat in hand. “A recognition. William II gave the first parliamentary Constitution to Luxembourg with certain freedoms such as its own government and administration, while William I managed us like a Dutch province.” A recently renovated neoclassical square that seems to be a good starting point for exploring the city, wherever you want.
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Constitution Square
Here you get the measure of this fortified city, listed as a UNESCO world heritage site in 1994. Built on a rock overlooking two pretty green valleys where the Pétrusse and the Alzette confluence, Luxembourgville has been transformed over the course of its sovereignties (Houses of Burgundy, Spanish Habsburgs, Kingdom of France, Austrian Habsburgs, Prussia), until becoming one of the most powerful fortresses in Europe under Vauban at the end of the 17th century: a “Gibraltar of the North”!
Above the ramparts and the Pétrusse park, the panorama is most photogenic, taking in the long Adolphe bridge and its 84 m arch, over which cyclists and pedestrians circulate via a footbridge. Straight ahead, the massive French neo-Renaissance silhouette and the 46 m high turret of the headquarters of the Bank and Caisse d'Épargne de l'Etat du Luxembourg stand out in the station area.
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Cathedral side
As the chimes tinkle, the streets of the city are in international time: here Luxembourgish, there English, French, Italian, German, Portuguese… “Luxembourg has been a multilingual city since the Middle Ages, explains Adeline. 48% of the 640,000 inhabitants are foreigners. A multicultural city with more than 170 nationalities living here and more than 200,000 cross-border workers who come to work in Luxembourg every day, including some 100,000 French!” An El Dorado for some… On Place Clairefontaine sits the statue of Grand Duchess Charlotte of Luxembourg, seventh sovereign of the Grand Duchy. A paved square where the ministries sit, including the Ministry of State, the equivalent of Matignon.
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Quarter du Grund
In five minutes through the narrow streets, you reach the Corniche des Remparts path which runs along the wild Alzette valley.
Formerly punctuated by horticultural and industrial activities (textiles, breweries, etc.), it now houses a succession of urban gardens in the picturesque setting of the Grund district. Panorama obliges, take a break on one of the terraces of the bar-restaurants, the atmosphere is relaxed like in the alleys of the old districts, of the rue du Fossé where, at Easter, the creators' market or the rue de La Loge where the Ennert de Steiler, the oldest café in the city (15th century), attracts fans of trendy pubs.
A stone's throw away on Rue de l'Eau, a more chic shopping atmosphere surrounds the Chamber of Deputies and the Palace (1890), official residence of the Grand Ducal family and seat of government until 1817. In 1418 it was installed there the first town hall destroyed by an explosion in 1554 and rebuilt twenty years later. In the middle of the 18th century, the building was enlarged by a baroque style building. “Today, it brings together different styles: Renaissance, Moorish influences Spanish and Flanders…”, describes Adeline.
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A table !
A little hungry? Don't hesitate, open the door of the renowned Chocolate House tea room and treat yourself to one of its sublime artisanal frozen pastries, unless you prefer the madeleines of Léa Linster Delicatessen, first female Bocuse d'Or in 1989: “Crispy and soft inside, their recipe dates back more than 35 years. It was Grand Duchess Joséphine-Charlotte's favorite cake”, specifies the chef whose little delicacies always supply the court. As for Luxembourg specialties, head to the Um Dierfgen restaurant, whose copious plates of flour quenelles with bacon, smoked pork necks, homemade queen-style bites and mustard sausages… are a real delight.
The modern city
If the Ville-Haute undeniably has its charm, don't hesitate to get away from it. Going down through the medieval gate of the Three Towers and the Montée de Pfaffenthal, take the panoramic elevator. At 74 m high, the view
on the Pont Rouge and the bottom of the Alzette valley offers another breathtaking read on this resolutely green city, ideal for relaxation and cycling. The funicular immediately connects the Kirchberg plateau, the European and banking side of Luxembourg City. An exploration of this famous business center plunges into the excitement of major European authorities and a popular economic and cultural hub against a backdrop of buildings, Art and contemporary architecture imagined by the greatest. A monumental open-air gallery.
Practical information
Where to stop by camper van in Luxembourg
No motorhomes in the city center, the city favors soft mobility. But you won't be left out! Public transport being free, access to the city is easy. Correct distance by bike.
15 minutes from Luxembourg City:
Camping Bon Accueil Alzingen
Located in the municipal park of the commune of Hesperange, south of the capital, this campsite has beautiful pitches (€7) in a peaceful green setting. Electricity €4. Open from the end of March to mid-October.
2, rue du Camping, L-5815 Alzingen
Camping Kockelscheuer
This terraced campsite offers pitches measuring 10 x 10 m. Electricity (16 A), water filling point, emptying point and possibility of emptying chemical toilets. Camping price.
22, route de Bettembourg.
Parking du Glacis
A good option for parking for the day! Close to city center. Prohibited at most 3.5 t. €1/hour Monday to Friday from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.
21, allée Scheffer, L-2520 Luxembourg
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To have
Notre-Dame Cathedral
The building, which became a cathedral in 1879, stands in a late Gothic style with Renaissance ornamentation. The interior, very richly decorated, is worth seeing: wall paintings, tapestries, columns with a Spanish Moorish spirit, and TV screens to follow mass! In the crypt, the vault, under guard by two lions, shelters the deceased of the grand ducal family.
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Les casemates de la Pétrusse
A staged exploration 45 m underground. 500 m of steps and staircases in these ancient bastions built in 1644 by the Spanish to protect the fortified city. Vauban gave it its current form. The site, under masonry vaults, was dismantled in 1867 before serving as a shelter during the two wars. Pleasant return via the park. Entrance fee.
The Banks of Clausen
This is the district of the old Moselle breweries from the 19th century, rehabilitated into a gastronomic city. A neighborhood of bars and restaurants to experience in the evening. Tapas, brunch, grill, gastro menu, brasserie… You are spoiled for choice! We fell in love with the South rooftop, its menu and its view of the Ville-Haute. Its bar set up in old silos is worth a look.
The European district of Kirchberg
Court of Justice, European Investment Bank, the European Commission and Court of Auditors rub shoulders here with major banking groups but also the Philharmonie, the Museum of Modern Art, the European Convention Center and even RTL Group. An island stretching out at the heart of modern buildings by Pei, Portzamparc, Delvoye… Guided tours possible.
To taste
Kaempff-Kohler. Since 1928, this house has been the specialist in Riesling pâté, Rieslingspaschtéit, an emblematic product of Luxembourg. Wrapped in puff pastry, this pâté en croute combines, among other things, pork and veal marinated in white wine, spices, onion, parsley… Supplier to the Court, this caterer, also a pastry chef and cheese maker, offers a choice of grocery products fine.
Address : 10, rue du Curé, L-1368 Luxembourg
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