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NASA dresses in Prada, Victoria’s Secret is struggling, a nice show of hats…

The spacesuit designed by Prada for Axiom Space; Barbara Palvin at the Victoria’s Secret fashion show; the poster for the exhibition “Stephen Jones, artist hats”. MONTAGE: PRADA/AXIOM – MATTEO PRANDONI/BFA.COM – PALAIS GALLIERA/STEPHEN JONES

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Selection Every week, “Le JT de la mode” returns to talk about the latest creations, new collabs, addresses, exhibitions, books…

On display this week, Prada spacesuits for the next Artemis III mission, the return of Victoria’s Secret to the catwalks, a beautiful exhibition on hats at the Palais Galliera and other fashionable delights.

NASA dresses in Prada

The spacesuit designed by Prada for Axiom Space. PRADA/AXIOM

In a climate on Earth that is more anxious than ever, luxury is looking far to the stars to find new life and shape the future of the sector. As mysterious as it is inspiring, space has become a new fertile playground conducive to experimentation of all kinds. Latest announcement to date: the luxury house Prada will produce with Axiom Space, the American company specializing in astronautics, Axiom Extravehicular Mobility Unit (AxEMU) suits intended for the astronauts – including the first woman – of the Artemis III lunar mission of NASA, planned for 2026.

“Innovation is present when we combine different know-how, different cultures and multiple experiences”, said Matt Ondler, president of Axiom Space. Its engineers therefore turned to the expertise of Prada in order to “to use advanced technologies and innovative sewing methods to bridge the gap between the functionality of the suit and its more aesthetically appealing white outer layer, providing astronauts with an increased level of comfort” and the protection needed to cope with extreme temperatures. The return of man to the Moon – a first since 1972 – will therefore mark a new stage in space travel and a big step for the world of luxury.

Victoria’s Secret beats the hell out of it

Barbara Palvin, one of the “Angels” of the new Victoria’s Secret fashion show. MATTEO PRANDONI/BFA.COM

Return to Earth with the American lingerie brand Victoria’s Secret which, after six years of absence, made its return to the catwalks on October 15. Singled out for its numerous scandals – lack of inclusiveness, friendship with Jeffrey Epstein, misogynistic vision of women – the label once famous for its grandiose sequin shows had to rethink its copy. But the result is not up to par. For this new fashion show supposed to present a revamped image, the brand tried to recreate the surprise and glamor of which it was a pioneer decades ago without succeeding.

It’s not Tyra Banks, Kate Moss or the presence of the former French first lady Carla Bruni in alluring underwear or even her most famous “Angels” who managed to impress us. A few busty models have certainly appeared for the inclusive deposit, but the mechanism remains seized, a bit like the panels installed on the ground which caused several models to trip. And the lingerie? Without much interest. In 2024, the magic clearly no longer works. Victoria’s Secret is struggling to get up to speed, a sign that it may be time to hang up its legendary wings once and for all.

The engaged theme of the Met Gala 2025

Singer and artistic director of Louis Vuitton Pharrell Williams alongside fashion high priestess Anna Wintour and Formula 1 driver Lewis Hamilton at the Metropolitan Museum of in New York on October 9, 2024.
TIMOTHY A. CLARY/AFP

Every year it is one of the major events in the fashion world. Since 1948, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York has invited all the greatest personalities to its Met Gala. Founded by fashion critic Eleanor Lambert, this event aims to raise funds to support the Costume Institute, a department of the museum dedicated to the preservation and promotion of fashion history. The first Monday in May, this evening is distinguished by its dress coderenewed each year with a very specific theme. After “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion” in 2024 which was the opportunity to observe the most beautiful outfits from the archives of luxury houses or the 2023 evening given in honor of the late Karl Lagerfeld, the 2025 edition promises to be particularly brilliant.

The theme “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”, revealed a few days ago by “Vogue”, is inspired by the book “Slaves to Fashion” by Monica L. Miller. “It will take the black dandy as its subject and examine the importance of clothing and style in the formation of black identities in the Atlantic diaspora,” said the American fashion magazine under its Instagram post. Lewis Hamilton, ASAP Rocky and Colman Domingo will co-chair the fundraiser alongside Anna Wintour and Pharrell Williams – who in turn highlighted the importance of celebrating the cultures of slavery, which still haunts American society. A memorable event not to be missed.

Franco-British jewelry

The Rouje x Missoma jewelry collaboration. RED/MISSOMA

One is passionate about the Parisian soul and the charm of vintage clothing. The other cultivates an immoderate love for jewelry and fine stones. The path of Jeanne Damas, the creator of the French brand Rouje, crossed that of Marisa Hordern, at the helm of the London jewelry brand Missoma. Together, they imagined a capsule collection of fine jewelry, inspired by the style seventies by Paloma Picasso, Loulou de La Falaise, Christian Lacroix and Yves Saint Laurent. Handmade in Missoma’s Notting Hill workshop, the line features five exclusive pieces, including three pairs of earrings, a necklace and a ring crafted from 18k gold-plated brass, tinted quartz and pearls responsibly sourced fresh water.

◗ Rouje x Missoma, from October 25, rouje.com and missoma.com.

The fashion and luxury hatmaker

The exhibition “Stephen Jones, Artist Hats” has just opened at the Palais Galliera. PALAIS GALLIERA/STEPHEN JONES

Christian Dior’s hats are his. Those of Louis Vuitton, too. The headwear of John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood? Him again. Stephen Jones’ name may be confidential, but his work resonates throughout the world of luxury. So much so that the Palais Galliera is devoting a wonderful exhibition to this hatmaker – “Stephen Jones, artist’s hats” – until March 16. This retrospective – the first entirely dedicated to an accessory – presents the work of this contemporary British milliner, from his first collections in the 1980s to his most recent ones.

Forty-five years of creation are on display here through a journey of nearly 400 works and more than 170 headgear. Around forty complete silhouettes, archive pieces, drawings and photographs also bear witness to the close links built by this “hatmaker engineer” with the world of luxury, including the house of Dior with which he has collaborated for nearly thirty years.

While there are many designers who owe him memorable headdresses, there are also a plethora of celebrities that this Englishman has styled for years, from Boy George to Rihanna and Lady Gaga via the British royal family, including Princess Diana. This artist has managed to elevate the hat to the rank of a work of art with this touch of audacity and modernity which underlines the longevity of his career. Hats off.

◗ “Stephen Jones, artist hats”, until March 16, 2025, at the Palais Galliera, 10, avenue Pierre-Ier-de-Serbie, -16e.

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